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I think you're right, I stuck a bolt in that one, I should probably switch to it, I may have to lengthen the wire. In the meantime I checked the ground on the one I have, it reads 000 with the ohmmeter so it's good.

Well the end is exposed to the hot water, I'll check the ground tomorrow.

Ok so I made a little plate, glued it on with hi-temp RTV and used the bolt to hold it. It works just fine and looks good too after I painted it. I also had to plug a water outlet on the top of the head, I think it was 3/8 fine thread.

I installed a newer style 225 slant head (1975 vintage) on my old block (1967 or so) and everything worked out just fine except for the temperature sensor. The sensor hole is bigger on the newer head so I used an adapter but only the end of the sensor pokes into the water and now it barely...

I'll get creative with it tomorrow. I assume then if I don't plug it exhaust will come blasting out?

I just installed my slant into a 74 with the trans already in place. It was not as easy dealing with the spool mounts but I did get it in. I had to jack up the front of the trans and align things just right. I had a helper working the hoist and had a big breaker bar to move the engine around...

I acquired a rebuild head which seems to be 1975 vintage so it's a newer style. I was hoping to install it onto my 67 225 6-banger but I noticed an extra port at the back of the head. Can anybody tell me what this is and how do I plug it? See the images below.

Now that I have my manifold leaks fixed I want to solve the problem with hard starting when cold. My 225 6 banger has always been hard to start. If a crank it long enough and pump it a lot it'll start eventually. I know it's a gas supply issue. I'm running a stock engine but have a super 6...

I had an old Valiant with the same problem. Turns out (as stated above) it was the negleted radiator even though I thought it had sufficient flow. I got the radiator cleaned up at a radiator shop and the needle never moved from normal temp again.

You may want to replace the float in the carb if you have not already. They tend to get heavy over time & they're cheap preventive maintenance.

Wait, small hole in the float? I'd start there by replacing it. My slant had a fuel problem too. Before I cleaned the tank I bought a new mech. fuel pump. It quickly got clogged cause I found out later the pickup screen was missing and there was all kinds of crap in the fuel. The short...

When all else fails replace the float with a new one.

Heat that sucker in the oven before you install it. It'll slip on there like a greased pig.

I used to always pull the trans with the engine but I find it easier just to disconnect the trans and pull the engine by itself. That way you don't have to drain the transmission or disconnect the trans lines, drive-shaft or gear selector.

I've never had a problem using Fram ph8a.

I disagree, your power improvement will be noticeable and you gas mileage will change slightly (you don't get more power from nothing).

I say yes it will make a difference. It won't be a screamer but it will go faster especially if you fatten up the stock exhaust pipe. You don't have to go crazy with it, just bump it up to 2" or so. I did a super six setup on my 67 Barracuda and love it. Your car is even lighter so go for...

You may want to check or replace your float. If it's old and saturated it won't float and will not close off the fuel supply. It will cause the symptoms you listed above.

You'll want to go a bit bigger exhaust too. I have a 2bbl setup and a bigger pipe than stock and she runs just fine. You may be overkill with a 4 bbl if you keep things stock.

If you find it's not a fuel delivery issue check the advance mechanism on the distributor to see if it's even working. They fail quite often especially if they're old.

Yup, closed is bad, mine is stuck open so it gives me no problems and I'm not about to "fix" it either.

As stated above, check the vacumn advance for a leaky advance diaphram. When they get old they leak and don't provide any vacumn advance thus giving you poor gas mileage and performance.

I was getting strange noises from my 6 banger and it turns out it was a cracked flex plate. 3 of the 4 holes holding the torque converter on were cracked and about to break apart.

Your 6 banger should never run hot even without a shroud. I'm guessing you have a partially plugged radiator or you may have a clogged/rusty water jacket at #6 cylinder (it's the lowest one). If you ever have the head off check the gunk around the rear cylinder sleeve, it's usually loaded up.

You stated #5 spark plug looked bad. I'd do a compression test on all cylinders just to be sure. Taking the carb apart and cleaning it couldn't hurt either. I'd also pull the pickup tube out of the tank and check to see if the sock screen is still attached.

If you've never changed the float in the carb you may want to. They get heavy from gas soaking into them (unless they're brass) and do all kinds of things you don't want. If nothing else it's good preventive maintenance and it's cheap.

If you pull the trans with the engine (which I would recommend) be sure to drain it as much as possible otherwise you'll get lots of fluid all over the place. You may even want to drain the torque converter by backing out the drain screw. I've always pulled em out the top, you can even keep...

Ok so here's an update. I finally had time to pop the hood and take a look at the carb. Turns out there was a split in one of the large vacumn ports I had blocked off. I replaced it with a new one and lo & behold it ran much better! In fact it ran so good It felt like a new motor. I did...