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I've done it on a B body with a big block and headers. I used a drywall screw to get the old one out and the right sized socket on a long 1/2" extension to drive the new one in. Make sure you drive the new one in straight, have a helper hold things in position at the steering box while you tap...

The overall length is the same on all '67 to '76 strut rods, however the 73 and up w/course threads on the bushing end uses a thicker bushing so the strut has different end to accommodate the thick bushings. You can mix and match different strut rods and K frames as long as you have the right...

Speedway sells 3/4" Swedged tubes in 1 inch increments with LH and RH threads on the ends, just figure out what length you need and replace the tube.

Been there done that and got a bruise on my shoulder from the bumper slamming down on me when it popped. Just weld the hole up, drill it, tap it, slap it back in.

Power steering or manual? If power steering, no, it's used ones only. If manual it's Dorman 425-252 for the coupler and 425-253 for the guts inside the coupler.

Some lubrication would help, don't be afraid to slather the contact areas with grease. Poly bushings are way stiffer than rubber and need to slide a little instead of squishing, grease will keep them moving smoothly.

Don't use poly strut rod bushings with a reinforced K frame without trimming the bushing, the extra material in the K frame compresses the bushing too much causing the strut rod to bend instead of flexing at the bushing with extreme suspension movement. I broke 3 strut rods on my dart using poly...

American cars didn't start using communist metric hardware until the mid to late 70's. The fine thread strut rods are 9/16 x 18 on both ends, the later struts with the course threads were 9/16 x 12 on the bushing side.

Sometimes they just have a thick felt washer instead of a rubber boot.

I've had good luck bending each tab individually with a small pair of channel locks. Sometimes that wire retainer gets in the way of header pipes especially in a big block car where space is at a premium.

The problem with poly strut bushings is they're too thick for the 67-72 strut rods, they will work with the 73 and up rods in stock form but not the older ones. If you want to use the poly bushings with those rods you'll have to cut the thickness down on the inner bushings (slice them where...

A locking column isn't going to stop a thief with a tow truck , if a pro really want's your car they're going to get it. Leave it off or disable it if it's not working right.

I agree with getting rid of that dangerously long bolt and spacer but if he runs the drag link down at an angle it's going to create bump steer. I think a better solution to that problem would be to buy another steering arm from speedway and mount it to the top of the spindle along with the one...

Got any pics of the front end? It would probably make things easier for us to diagnose. Generally a street driven straight axle car would run anywhere from 6* to 9* of positive caster without issue, a track only car can get away with more positive caster, more caster is more stable at high...

The plastic pins you see don't hold anything in place, it's just part of the manufacturing process where the plastic is injected between the two shafts, the plastic that gets melted between the shafts is what holds them together. Try loosening the column from the under the dash and at the...

Here you go CENTRIC 41468000E Repair Bearing C-TEK Standard

The problem with the 8 1/4 rear is the fact that the axle shaft is the inner bearing race and is subject to wear like Rusty said, but the 8 3/4 which uses a unitized bearing assembly be it the tapered roller or aftermarket ball bearing style the axle isn't in direct contact with the roller parts...

You have to use the correct bushings with 73 and newer struts, the bushings are thicker than the 72 and older ones.

What are you running for tire pressure?

That will work just fine, you'll probably have to knock the strut rods out of the control arms and leave them in loose to reinstall, it's hard to line up both lower control arms and both struts on the way in, an extra set of hands will help a lot.

The plastic piece is the part of the sheer pin that locks the two halves of the tube together, it keeps the column sections held together until it collapses on impact during a collision or until someone beats the column up taking it apart. The plastic is injected in from the factory, you might...

Turn the torsion bar adjusting bolt all the way out, remove the bump stop under the upper control arm, loosen the lower control arm pivot nut. Now rotate the torsion bar socket in the lower control arm, either pry down on the blade or try to grab the LCA torsion bar socket with a pipe wrench...

The lower ball joints are also the steering arms and the new parts weren't machined exactly the same as the old parts so there is some variation between the two which will require an alignment.

The 73 & up strut rods use thicker bushings than the 72 & down, 73 & up rods have course threads on the bushing end, 72 & down have fine threads. Either ones can be used provided you use the correct bushings for the rod.

Your fine, just clean up any burrs and press a new bushing in it.

Depends on what you consider fooling. The lower control arm has to be unbolted from the K frame and the tension taken off the torsion bar (measure how far the bolt sticks out or count the turns for reassembly), take both nuts off the strut rod and knock it loose from the LCA, unbolt the shock...

About 80 bucks at speedway http://www.speedwaymotors.com/

Get another K frame and a driver side lower control arm, the K frame looks bent beyond repair and the control arm is probably bent at the pivot point (cant tell for sure from the pics). Also get another fender and bring everything to the shop when you get the frame pulled that way they can pull...

If you want to save that car it's going to need a pull on a frame machine to make it right again. You might get lucky and be able to pull some of that out by chaining up the bumper to a tree and give a couple of good tugs in reverse.

There were a few different length couplers, as well as different couplers for manual and power steering. A power steering coupler has a 5/8" hole and a manual one has a 3/4" for the steering box.