Search results for query: *

Yeah, just hog it out, it's the flats on both ends that do the sealing. Just dress any burrs left by the drill or ream.

We charge about 80 bucks (I think) to do a brake flush at the shop I work at. I use a Harbor Freight vacuum brake bleeder, it usually takes me about 15 min once the car is up in the air and if none of the bleeders give me any trouble.

Make sure the hose end isn't bottoming out on the caliper before the washer gets crushed.

Make sure the hose isn't bottoming out on the caliper before the washer seals. I read somewhere about new cheapo washers being too thin to seal properly, cant remember where or when though. Maybe grind a little off the caliper around the raised rim that holds the washer in place.

A manual brake pushrod will be required weather it's OE or an aftermarket adjustable one is up to you. You can reuse the master cyl if there is nothing wrong with it just get a new pushrod retaining grommet for it.

Pull your rear drums and check the wheel cyls, pull the boots back and make sure they aren't wet. I've seen wheel cyls weep and suck air back into the system causing low/no pedal.

You could skip the adapter and just drill two holes through the firewall and nut and bolt the master cyl between the 4 studs.

I have an 1 1/32" master cyl in my dart, it's not bad at all. It came from an 85 pickup w/power brakes.

Check your left front caliper, it might be sticking. If not the caliper it could be contaminated pads or mis-matched pads. If the brakes check out ok it's probably worn out suspension bushings, ball joints or tie rod ends.

They help keep rain water off the rotors, if you plan on driving in the rain I'd run them. Trying to stop with wet brakes is a little scary for the first second or two.

I'd ditch the front drums for some disks before adding a booster, disk brakes stop a lot better, front drums just plain suck. Power brakes are no safer than manual brakes, the booster just makes the pedal easier to push. Seeing that you're from Australia means this is probably right hand drive...

Well, try the master cyl you have on the car now, it's free you have nothing to lose by trying. If you wind up with too hard of a pedal then put a smaller bore master on it or if you have too much travel (assuming the rears are adjusted right) then you'll need a larger bore master.

I've never see Ni-Cu on a factory application, Poly armor lines yes but never the copper stuff. It would be nice if the govt mandated corrosion proof brake lines and parking brakes.

The fittings are still made of steel.

I've always just used a piece of pipe or old broom stick jammed between the pedal and the seat, it's a little time consuming but it's never let me down.

I know nobody asked but just FYI 73-75 uses a 2.6" piston and 76 and up uses a 2.75" piston, both are interchangeable as far as hose location and mounting style but just make sure you dont mix a large piston caliper with a small piston caliper on the same vehicle, they look identical at a...

You have to remove the lock out hub or the cover if it has full time 4x4, there's an outer retaining ring and a snap ring holding the drive hub in place, after that there will be two big "nuts" that require a special socket to remove ( it can be done with a pair of pliers if they aren't super...

Nickel copper alloy (NiCopp) tubing

All you need to do the swap is the manual pushrod. If your lucky the brake lines are in good enough shape that they can be bent without breaking.

An A body brake pushrod should measure 6 3/16" from the center of the bolt hole to the tip.

The O ring holds the rod into the master cylinder, it prevents the push rod from being easily pulled out (and falling out) of the master cyl.

I was wrong about the hole being too small, it's actually too big no grinding required. Bill's right the aluminum master cyl doesn't quite cover the hole. Must have been thinking of something else.

That's the way I do it too, the only thing is you need to open up the hole in the firewall a little for the aluminum master.

Power brake cars usually have a small bore master cyl, could be 15/16" or 1". Try putting an ad in the parts wanted section, I'm sure some body on here has an extra brake pushrod laying around.

6 3/16" from the center of the bolt hole to the tip.

The pushrod has to be from a manual brake A body, the power one wont work. As for the master cyl you could use the one that is on the car now (assuming it's in working condition), if you decide to go with a new master cyl the smaller bore will give a lighter feel on the pedal. And there is no...

If you have all the power stuff that was taken off the car: booster, mounting bracket, pedal pushrod etc.. then you should be good to go. Oh and hello from the other Lockport :)

The 73-76 lower ball joint for 10" drums or disk brakes has a wider bolt pattern and uses larger bolts than the 67-72 ball joint. So yes you probably have the wrong ball joint. If you are using 73-76 single pistion disk brakes you'll need a ball joint for a 73-76 A body even if your car is 72 or...

You should be able to get at least one pump with vacuum assist with the engine recently shut off, if the pedal goes hard as soon as you shut the engine off then either the check valve is bad or the booster has a leaky diaphram. It sounds like the master cyl is bypassing internally along with the...