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Do you still have the over-center spring on the pedal? If so you need to remove it with a diaphragm pressure plate. If you have a borg and beck pressure plate w/3 fingers it should have the over-center spring on the pedal, but you might want to try removing it to see if the pedal returns better.

It shouldn't have much if any play on the input bearing retainer snout, only back and fourth movement against and away from the pressure plate. Check to see if the bearing retainer snout isn't broken. Unless you have a hydraulic clutch there should be a little clearance between the through out...

'75-'76 A body, the brake pedal has the goofy twist in it.

I've bent non-chrome sticks to suit my needs in non stock applications, but if you tried to heat and bend a chrome stick you'll ruin the chrome

The levers are indeed hardened but only case hardened, so if you took a Dremel tool or small grinder to the area you want to drill and grind past the hardened layer you'll be able to drill right through with no problem. If you grind the area to be drilled but still can't get the bit to bite...

The brake pedal in 75/76 has that twist near the foot pad, 67-74 has a straighter brake pedal near the foot pad.

The set on the right is 75-76. It will bolt up to any 67-76 A body though.

An overdrive 833 would be easier to install. The nv3500 is a pretty big transmission that wont fit in the stock tunnel, plus you'll need a 143 tooth flywheel and 11" clutch and hydraulic stuff in place of the stock linkage and a lot of other fitment BS to basically run a truck transmission in a...

Also has a broken input bearing retainer.

Motor mounts in good shape? Transmission mount in good shape? How about the "Z" bar (torque shaft) bushings and linkage pivot points? Everything lubricated and moving smoothly from the pedal to the clutch fork? If all the above checks out ok, the big block torque shaft is known to flex at the...

The transmission in the picture is set up for a floor shifter, it's the bolt-on Inland style with the handle removed, the extra rod on the shift arm is for the interlock on '70 models. Now the only problems with trying to put that transmission in an F body are the shifter location, it has the...

The wire clip on the Z bar is supposed to key into the grooves on the pivot ball bushings on the frame side ball preventing the Z bar from moving side to side. Either the clip popped out of the bushings or the bushings are broken.

There's a lakewood smallblock engine plate on the Akron/Canton Ohio craigslist if you're still looking

5w30 synthetic motor oil if it's low mileage or 10w30 synthetic if it's got some miles on it.

Make sure the input shaft stays in place and doesn't fall out of the main shaft or you'll be pulling the side cover to retrieve the rollers inside between the two shafts.

Yep, the levers are case hardened so if you want to drill a hole in one you'll have to grind the spot you want to drill on both sides to get past the hard outer layer, then you can drill as normal.

You'd have to be pretty ham-fisted to damage the clutch disk installing the transmission, usually once you finagle the splines and the pilot bearing together usually it's smooth sailing from there. It's hard to tell from the pics but what do the fingers look like on the pressure plate when...

Sounds like the clutch disk is in backwards or the throw out bearing is shot.

Plenty of pick up trucks with 318's and 11" flywheels out there, should be a dime-a-dozen.

A soft-loc clutch will probably let any of those transmissions survive... but they are a little pricey.

It should be a Hurst shifter or possibly an ITM shifter which is basically a Hurst shifter made by a different supplier. The maker will be stamped into the side of the shifter. Trucks used a round shifter handle in those years which were rubber isolated where it mounts into the shifter unit, the...

Find a 80's pickup w/OD833 in a junk yard, it will have a hurst shifter mechanism and a long enough handle to heat and bend to your needs, only draw back will be the rubber isolated handle mount that's usually worn out but that's easily overcome with a drill and two nuts and bolts to mount the...

I'll bet something is binding in the linkage somewhere, you might want to start pulling things apart and checking for dry or worn out bushings. I would check everything from the clutch pedal to the the throw out bearing, you'll be amazed what a little bit of grease can do.

The weight they give you is generic and a little heavy but for a street driver it'll be fine. Like the ad says Brewers sells a more accurate weight if your worried about it.

The shock absorber piece that keeps the door from slamming shut, people use them or similar acting pieces to control clutch engagement.

You'll have a few options if you have your heart set on that transmission, to install "as is" you'll have to hack the living daylights out of the trans cross member and you'll wind up with the shifter handle somewhere up in the ash tray, the shifter mechanism and the cross member will be trying...

Nah, I'd do it again, now I have the technique.

I did one without the special tool once, tried chopping it out with a chisel, tried cutting it with a hacksaw blade, tried grabbing it with a hook on a slide hammer, all attempts failed. Then I broke out the cutting torch and made a relief cut down the length of the bushing then tried to pull...

Did you count the teeth? A marine 360 flywheel should be 160 tooth.

The 130 tooth 10.5 flywheel from 440 source has a bolt on weight so it can be used on either internal or external balanced engines.