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Thanks Where did you find that?

:rofl: I just realized I should have put this in the manual section too. I'll post it there too so if the admins want to delete this one, no worries.

The casting number is 2863085 and has a 10/10/68 year cast into it. I can't seem to find any references to it anywhere.

3.23 I beleive. Im not 100% sure, but pretty sure.

Sounds just like the exploder I got my rearend out of! Good luck :burnout: Feel free to post picture's here or let us know if you start a new thread

One more thing, When you make the cut on the axle tube, go in further then I did by at least 1/4" to 1/2". It will make it much easier to center/square up the end when you weld it back on. I did it right at the edge where it tapers down, it would have been okay but the saw took off just a touch...

I used the explorer shock mounts. The lower shock mount isn't ideal but it works. Im using the ebrake cable from the explorer connected to the rearend spliced to the original cables. I love the rear end still!

I'm real happy with the swap still. I added an overload spring to the spring pack to stiffin things up. It seems to work well. I'm using the stock power master cylinder. Eventually I want to upgrade to something a little more modern, but for now the car stops awesome! I've also been really...

You could always go 8.8... disc's, lockers, 3.27-3.73 gears...Way cheaper than any 8 3/4! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=89918 Jake

The 56 3/4 is after it was shortened. It started at 59 13/16

I dont know of the top of my head what the flange to flange is. The wheel mount to wheel mount is 56 3/4. The backspacing on the slicks is 4 1/4. I'll try to measure the flange to flange. Do you want inside to inside flanges. That measurement is kinda useless so I never measured it.

Check with who ever is shortening your drive shaft but most shops want to know u-joint to u-joint. Good luck!

I'm also thinking about moving the rearend back 1". This would give a little more clearence at the front of the tires. If I go with a longer shackle it should pick the ***-end of the car up a little and help level it out a bit.

Ya, not a whole lot though, just around the block. I havn't had a chance to check it out yet, but I think the e-brake was partially engaged. The leaf springs are real saggy leading to lots of body roll. Other then that, everything seemed to be real smooth. I'll play with it some more this...

Thanks. I'll try that first.

Well I finished the rearend swap on last sunday. I just got a real bad cold from working out side, and I've been sick all week. So I'm just barely feelin up to takin some pictures today. I'm having some issuse's geting the e-brake to work half way decent, so I think I'm just going to take the...

Thanks Fishy68. No I dont think I'm goin to mini tub it. At least not any time soon. I think I should be able to fit a big enough tire under it now. I had a 28x9 slick that fit as long as I was headed in a straight line. LOL. I want to find something like an ET street about that size. Jake

Almost finished! This has been a pretty big project for me and I'll be happy to have it done. I wasn't able to find bushings for the leaf springs or the shackle's at any of the local parts stores. I decided just to reuse what I have and up grade whenever I can afford a new set of springs. I...

Thanks for the feed back. My understanding is that the ranger's come with either the 7.5 or the 8.8 (4.0 only). The 8.8 is the same length as the exploder, but the 7.5 is 1 1/2" shorter. Kind of a strange deal but that's the way it seems to be. The Ranger 8.8 only came with 28 spline axle...

Thanks Shishaldin. I forgot, I was goin to say the relocation "kit" cost me $33.40. I went to the local steel yard and and picked up a big scrap sheet of 3/16 and a 56" piece of 1" schedule 40 pipe all for $8.40. Plus $25 from a local speed shop for the perches. The only thing left is...

I got quite a bit done today. I finished welding up the rearend. I welded the the tubes up to the center section. I've read thats a pretty big weak spot for these rear-ends. It was kind of a ***** to weld since I couldn't really get in there and clean out all the resadue, the weld had some...

I had it under the dart for about 7 years, and I was really hard on it, it never let me down...glad to be rid of it though!

I had it under the dart for about 7 years, and I was really hard on it, it never let me down...glad to be rid of it though!

Picked up the U-joint too. It's a percision joint from NAPA. Part # 457

It's an 8.8 out of an exlorer. The axle shafts are out of the same rig, but there both passenger side shafts. I cut the drivers side axle tube down about 3" to measure the same as the passenger side. Jake

A few of the trailer hitch

I just meant if I weld it right (like you discribed) it shouldn't move, or warp enough to make a difference. I started on the dissasembly this morning. Some one who owned the car before me welded a trailer hitch to the frame. I'm probably going to leave the 1/4 inch plate on the frame, since...

Ya I kinda figure as long as the tacks hold it really cant go anywhere. Hopefully. Jake

a couple pics

I got a little bit done today. I picked up the axle shaft I needed. $26, pretty good especially for how easy they are to pull! I got the axle tacked back together too. I'm hopin to get it welded up tomorrow, and start putting it all back together. I also picked up the sheet metal and round stock...