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I'm going to try this today. It should give me constant 45 psi. Thanks.

Well, I spoke too soon. After running good in the garage with the new crank sensor, when I went to actually drive it, it started acting up again. Swapped in a spare PCM that I have and it's not dying anymore. Unfortunately, it's a truck PCM that doesn't run well with the Jeep injectors/vacuum...

Thanks @AJ/FormS , that's some good tech. To follow up: I replaced the crank sensor just now and it's running fine again. Didn't get a chance to drive it yet due to graduation parties (and a 2010 Charger parts car clogging the drive way). It idles good and the exhaust isn't stinky either. Let...

Dion, yeah I know about the different crank sensors auto/manual. I had to swap connectors in the harness to run the correct sensor. My understanding is the pickup in the distributor times the fuel injection, correct? I agree on the crank sensor. Sidenote: We just picked up a hemi to swap in...

No, it runs rough off idle too. Friend came over and threw a timing light on it and we noticed that the light would skip a flash occasionally. Then the engine just completely died a few times. He said the light shut off when the engine shut down. So we knew it was somewhere in the ignition...

Today's update: New plugs, no change. Just checked fuel pressure: 34-36psi the rough idle made the needle move, 44 psi with vacuum removed. Service manual says: 31 psi at idle and 39 psi with vacuum removed. So I'm about 5 psi higher than the book says. Is that enough of a difference to make...

Ok, update on this: Checked compression. All cylinders are 170 psi except one was 165 and another was 180, so that seems good. Manifold air temp sensor was out of range, replaced it. Coolant temp sensor was out of range, replaced it. Plugs are black from running rich, so I cleaned them with...

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I'll check the temp sensor with my multi-meter to see if it's in spec. Probably also check the inlet air temp sensor. If that checks out, I'll compression check the cylinder. If that checks out, I'll throw a new plug in #4. Not sure when I can get back into it...

My Barracuda has a 94 magnum swapped in from a Grand Cherokee. Stock injection. After sitting through the winter, I started it and it's running really rough. It smells like it's running rich. It tries to idle down, almost dies, then idles back up. When I rev it up, it smooths out some, but not...

My blog has a parts list of what I did: Fuel System Complete Used quick connect to AN adapters for the high pressure side and regular rubber line for the return.

Cool. If you've got it on hand, post up some dims on it. I'm planning a new Hemi swap and was planning to use the Borg box, but this is intriguing.

Details on the steering box? Is it this one? That's a great deal if it's smaller than stock. Especially for new hemi swaps...

Thanks for the info.

What trans is that? Tremec TKO? If so, what bell housing is that? I've been looking into this and could only find the Quicktime housing that costs a fortune.

I am running the A/C compressor, so the stock belt works. I believe Dorman sells a dummy pulley to delete the compressor, which would use a stock length belt. Otherwise, measure it with some string and go to the autoparts store and find something. Rockauto also lists belt lengths on most stuff...

Nice work! Sounds good.

Thanks for the response. I replaced the gasket with a remflex... but my problem was actually the pipe to manifold joint. Ugh. Replaced the nuts with lock nuts and we're all good now. This is good info for future searching.

Do you have any pics of the driver's side header installed in the car? I know you used Sanderson headers, but which part number were these?

I am using '67 era 273 exhaust manifolds on my '94 Magnum. I used Magnum gaskets and they lasted about a year before blowing out. I know that there is a port mismatch between Magnum heads and LA manifolds. My question- What gaskets should I use? Magnum or LA or something for headers? I am...

I don't have a lot of specifics, but he said he used the entire drivetrain out of a 5.2L Grand Cherokee. So I'd assume it was the electronically controlled transmission. It's possible the VSS supplied info to unlock the torque converter and without that, it stalled the engine?

Thanks for everyone's input. It doesn't appear that the VSS effects much with the running of the engine. The only thing I've heard is coast-down may be effected. A friend of mine swapped into a Jeep and the engine would die on coast-down until he hooked up the VSS.

In this month's Hot Rod magazine, there is a "rescue" of a 97ish Dodge Ram where they say the vehicle speed sensor was making the engine go lean. Reason being, the truck had larger tires so the sensor was reading incorrectly. Does this really change the fuel mixture? I've got mine hooked up but...

Here's what I did on mine: Mini Update: Fuel Line Wrap, Power Steering Line and Seat Spacers I used the Grand Cherokee set up and it has no clearance issues with the battery tray.

Dion: The Camaro pump looks easier to adapt and is lower profile. It should work better than what I did. The red stuff is melted plastic from the electrical connector. The gas was dissolving it!

One year later: I think the gasket on the module was not meant to be this far below the fuel level or my plastic flange did not well. Decided to go to the Tanks, inc setup. So far I am happy with it.

Thank you for this info. I called your shop last week and we talked about flashing my PCM and I think I need to save up and do this for the car to run right. You had suggested switching to OBD 2 instead of flashing the OBD 1 PCM. My problem is that I've bought all new sensors and spent a lot of...

I'm still trying to track down some issues with my Magnum swap. I am wondering if there are differences in injectors by year. My engine is out of a 94 Grand Cherokee. My PCM is out of a 95 Ram with manual trans. When I look at Rockauto those two applications do not use the same injector part...

Okay, so I just got back from a long drive and the car seems very happy now. I kind of shotgunned it, but not without merit. I replaced the pump, regulator and the coil. Before doing all this, I clamped the return side and noted that the pressure dropped slower than when it was unclamped. I...

I tested all the injectors and cleaned them out, so I believe they are good. I'm assuming there is some sort of check valve on the supply side? Google is saying there may be one in the pump? The regulator would also have to seal, correct? How do I test which of these items is bad? Edit: Just...

Will you be going to the Medford Cruise? I will probably be there, but not have a car entered. It would be cool to meet you and see the car.