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Update: Polished the factory tach (obviously, I didn't overdue it). The little round medallion in the center remained discolored. I see one would have to un-crimp the case in order to replace the rear face behind the needle (I don't have a replacement for now).

Upate: Underdash courtesy lamp bracket/lens. I have one bracket already cleaned up but it's missing the round plastic dome lens. I have this other one with the lens intact and thinking about trying to clean it up prior to install.

I thought about rattles too, but being the fact my "rebuilt" factory speaker is not tested or installed yet, I decided to wait. I still have a factory AM radio I pulled out of my '65 Valiant bracket racer back in the 1970's (which appears to have the '64 style push buttons) that I might install...

Update: Just a baby step today. Installed the repro (part #DV3) defroster vents. The metal speed nuts supplied use a 1/2" socket. The nuts didn't seem to want to spin onto the plastic posts very easily, so I did not spin them all the way down. Regardless, I don't expect the vents to jump out...

Update: Peak quarter panel moulding. I salvaged all but five of the factory clips and decided to install the mouldings using my own innovation thinking (AKA: estilo mexicano). The cost of shipping is at or near the price of parts these days so just going to "wing it" for now. For the missing...

Update: Clean-up on quarter panel stainless molding underside (the upside that shows when installed looked in very good condition). Beginning condition underside (photo one); after spray down underside with Prep Sol which is a wax/grease remover (photo two) ; after Naval Jelly application (did...

No I have not bought the clips from Layson. The photo on his website look like the factory style clips to me.

Update: Began cleaning up the clips that hold the chrome moldings for the top of the quarter panels (soak in vinegar and then Evaporust). A few actually have remnants of their original green paint/coating. The rest are rusted to various degrees. Need 9 that snap on for each side (the two with...

Update: One step forward, two steps back. After re-installing the dash with the new circuit board, the fuel gauge rose to 1/8th full, which should be about right. I got so excited I took a spin to the closest gas station (PEMEX) to fill her up (for the first time in years) in order to gloat on...

That's what he told me, he could match the door keys if I so choose.

Update: I was having trouble turning the ignition key. Local locksmith disassembled the tumblers and made two keys that work fine. I was surprised he made the first new key by hand using a file! Then he made a second key to match on the machine. Paid $250.00 Mexican pesos (about $15.00 USD)...

Working on the dash. Tested the inoperative fuel and coolant temperature gauges (one at a time) by grounding both wires that connect to their respective sensors. Both needles rose quickly to maximum value. Took the defective odometer to a local shop. "Alejandro" found the reason the odometer...

That's a good point. In the ten years I have been driving it with the rebuilt booster, it never had a check valve installed. Maybe installing one would resurrect it once again. But funny it was working without the check valve. It does have the square vacuum tank installed and situated on the...

Update: I noticed on the drive to the gas station the brake pedal was very hard. It seems the power booster is not doing its job any longer (had the factory booster sent off for a rebuild about ten years ago). Don't plan on rebuilding the factory booster a second time. I guess first project...

Update: Drove 10 miles into town to a Mexican gasoline station to fill 'er up. I first warned the female attendant who inserted the hose that the fill pipe was a little finicky. Everything went fine until it shut off without warning, when a splash of fuel shot out and spilled onto one of her...

Update: I did some testing on the fuel and temp gauges. I did not know if the source voltage on the wires that connected to the sensors would be 12 volts or 5 volts. With a voltmeter connected to the end of the sensor wires (on the sensor end) and ignition "on", I found a pulsing volt reading...

Update: Dash circuit board had some busted pins. Replaced it with aftermarket version. Ammeter bypassed for now (don't trust older wiring). I have already installed two mechanical gauges, oil pressure on the cowl and water temperature on the dash below the radio and above the center console. The...

Unable to tighten side mirror screws. Placed a strand of insulted copper wire across the mirror gasket and into both screw holes and inserted the screws. Nice and tight again.

Update: Bucket seat track springs. My fabricator bent the ends of some store purchased springs to "match" the ends of the broken factory springs. Also made a connector to replace the broken wire that is driven by the seat adjust lever.

Shroud and new cast iron water pump were primed with RustOleum liquid rust restorer in a bottle (using brush). Then pump was spray painted with RustOleum high performance black and shroud with RustOleum high heat black.

Here is a little reference "chart" I made to summarize the water pump bolt lengths I'm using. I imagine this will vary depending on one's particular brackets/accessories. Second photo is a chart I found online.

The crank pulley is between 6" and 6.25". Doing the math with the water pump pulley @ 5.75" it seems the water pump is slightly overdriven 1.04/1.08.

Went to a local car show on Sunday June 3rd. Was "awarded" a participation certificate for best "project car". Spouse pointed out a slight rattling noise with the engine idling which I, for some reason, decided to ignore. After the show, I noticed I could wiggle the cooling fan just a bit. I...

Would I need to change to a different style radiator cap when the overflow tank is installed?

Update: Filled radiator and ran the motor to operating temperature a couple of times (the second time after shutting down I noticed some coolant spewed out of the overflow tube onto to ground). The temperature seems to have normalized at 195° without climbing any further, but this was in neutral...

Update: Coolant temperature (at idle) just keeps creeping up little by little, 190° then 200°, then 210°, then 220°, then I start to worry. Getting ready to test-fit the two-piece metal radiator shroud we fabricated (photo one). Those are "toilet paper" cardboard tubes placed over the radiator...

Update: Back to follow-up post #278, these are the window mechanisms de-rusted and painted. Ran low on RustOleum professional black the the driver's and passenger sides are different colors (not so easy to mix 'em up that way).

I have a thin of 2 inch wide rubber strip I am thinking of cutting up to make individual "gaskets" for each slot. I have all the original clips (but one is broken).

That's why that stainless is not installed yet, still waiting for some inspiration on a way to attach and seal correctly.

The OSPHO messed with the finish on the window mechanisms (photo #1). This is OK because the primer and paint will adhere that much better. The self-etching RustOleum primer seems to be an almost army green (photo #2).