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Just found this on the internet, but I guess we can't believe everything we read there: Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. ... Your engine needs oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated...

I always thought oil got thinner as it heated, but the higher number grades would thin less. My interpretation: 10W50 when cold is kinda thin to flow at lower temperatures and when warm, thins a little bit so it gets a "50" grade when hot. 10W30 when cold is kinda thin to flow at lower...

I just finished idling my '65 273 with factory solid lifters for 10 minutes sans valve covers and did not spill a drop.

When I was concerned about a low oil pressure reading on a factory gauge, I found this stuff online:

The new housing I purchased had no "lip" on the end to "catch" the outlet hose, which I did not appreciate. I ended up taking an old factory original one (from a 340 intake manifold in storage) and cleaning it up best I could. It was pretty crusty on the inside; seems to be maybe cast iron, not...

I heard that same noise with my 318 one time. Come to find out, there was not enough sealer on the exhaust stud that penetrates the water jacket and the water/steam was leaking from the stud at the corner of the exhaust manifold where the stud was allowing a little coolant to escape. Not saying...

I don't understand the root cause of the failure, what happened during assembly, one connecting rod was not torqued/tightened?

You mean the small block oil pumps can't be taken apart like the big block ones?

I used to bracket race my parents new factory stock 383 automatic Road Runner back in the day. Leaving the slap stick in drive, it would shift at 4500 RPM. When shifting manually, I always used the factory installed tach and shifted at the 5500 RPM redline. Never had a problem (ran very low 15's...

Under what circumstances did this tragedy occur?

My parents new 1962 Chrysler New Yorker station wagon came standard with that 413 motor, never had a problem. Don't know about parts availability. From Wiki: The 413 RB had a 4.1875 in (106 mm) bore and was used from 1959-1965 in cars. During that period, it powered all Chrysler New Yorker and...

It is a pain in the rear to be priming the carb all the time if your vehicle sits for a couple of days. I have three Mopars (with carbs) and some day I am going to go electric on all of 'em so they start when I turn the key. I would suggest everyone else do the same.

I'm glad I read this thread, I was just about to pour kerosene into the ports to check the valve seal. Much easier/efficient to pour it into the combustion chambers.

I just painted one of my valve covers with RustOleum Rusty Metal Primer (red oxide) and left it that way for now. Have not driven it much yet, but so far, so good.

I used them back in the 1970's on my bracket racer (pictured). They were sold by Ed of "For 340's Only". I never experienced any vibration and it was good to know my clutch linkage was not being tweaked by engine torque. I would use them on all of my cars if I could. Bought a clean '85 Olds...