Search results for query: *

I take it it also doesn't have the bosses on it ?

You better get it right, or you will burn up the trans

So the OP should look for a car with a 8 3/4 rear end in it

if your concerned about the cost, sell whatever front brake conversion you use for 75% what you paid for it and get a scarebird kit instead that will allow you to keep the 5x4 bolt pattern and eliminate the need for new axles alltogether (provided you still have the stock spindles)

wouldnt a mesh line let all the fluid leak out? :poke:

they (mopar) do make them (727 transmissions) that do work (for this particular application)

the do make then that work i got my 360/727 in my duster from a 74 motor home it has the proper tail shaft and it fits like it should like pistah said, check the tail shaft and the yoke

sorry to hear that man hope things turn back sunny side up soon

so...did you get it?

so your old transmission leaked at the very bottom now a newly rebuild one also leaks at the very bottom what are the odds something else is leaking and you're simply noticing it on the bottom? the reason i ask is because i struggled with a leaking oil filter adapter for ages only to find...

I was just amused by his claim to have fixed it, only to find he made a rather basic typo

Nope, I hadn't even noticed you yet I was poking fun of Mike, while he was poking fun of the OP

Let's just say " steel" is not a verb

Now, if someone could just fix your lousy spelling ...

If it is you should be on your way to get it allready

Almost forgot, make sure the bolt pattern work for you, because if you would have to get 2 new wheels to make it work, that'll get into the hundreds too

if those gears work for you, id expect anything under 1000 an acceptable price (with a sure grip, 1200)

a full manual in essence changes the automatic transmission to a "manual without a clutch" it means it will not upshift on its own anymore, nor will it down shift on its own anymore

I would go with whatever bolt pattern I have on the front

looks like you are looking for two things a shift kit (to change the way the transmission shifts) that would be something like this B&M 10226 B&M Shift Improver Kits | Summit Racing then you say you want to change the gas and the transmission (shifter?) to wire that would be these three...

i run a cone style in my duster, no complaints

yeah, reading the description of the lube, it also cleans, so we'll just go with that

i have those springs, i was talking about adding a throttle return spring to the kickdown lever...like you posted in #4 but i gotta tell you, i think i will go with @Oldmanmopar s suggestion first i wonder if it would make sense to try and shoot some cleaner through it first?

Thanks That was my first thought But I checked, I can wiggle it both on the transmission end, as well as on the carb end, and it moves freely

I poured a copious amount of it down into the sheat and the pushed the cable in, in the same direction Id really hate to have to R and R the cable...hence i though, throttle return spring

i was told not to use oil, because it atracts dust and makes it stick over time when i first put it all together a few years back i put some graphite powder down the sheath

a few months ago I replaced the transmission mount in my duster Ever since then, the 727 does not seem to want to do a 2-3 shift It will grab 3rd when cold, but once everything warms up, it will not upshift when cruising (it will under WOT) I went to look at it today, and noticed after I get...

Man, I love a happy ending Oh, and you do NOT want to drive with one of those clips not properly seated, because if you loose a cap at 50 MPH you will need new undies (Don't ask)

double check the other end of the joint...hopefully its still hanging on

morning fellows took the duster out for a 30 mile cruise yesterday did a few burnouts, hit some back roads then i noticed, the car does not like to stay in 3rd it seems to want to hold 2nd longer then it used to, and when it does get into 3rd it kicks down as soon as i get past 1/8th...