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I am going to start pulling the heads off tomorrow. Going to be a pia with the manifold's and tight clearance, also, realizing times like this a lifted vehicle kinda sucks. Standing on a bucket, while worked wasn't the best way lol.

I just tried what you recommended, had a piece of wood and a rubber mallet. Tapped lightly a few times and heard a light thud sound, put everything back together and now have 0 compression on that cylinder. Not real sure what I did but don't think it was good.

Sorry, it's posted in another post. Had 120's dry on 1-3-5-7 and when I went to the other side #2 was 30 dry and 45 wet. I didn't continue testing after that point. Here's the original thread giving a bit more info.

I already did the compression test, now being advised on a leak down test. Thanks

Okay. I called around to the auto stores and no one even rents or carries a leak down tester. If I rig up my compression tester, while I wouldn't be able to measure leak down percentage I should be able to still tell where/if it's leaking correct? What should I set my compressor to, 60 psi or...

When trying to start it it will not run, it backfires back thru the carburetor. I replaced the carb with a new one and same results. Figured timing or stuck valve/s, checked compression and 1-3-5-7 were all right around 120 dry, #2 was 30 and increased only slightly with oil in the cylinder...

It has about 90k miles on it, assuming all stock and never been opened up. I should pull it and rebuilt it, just can't afford it right now and hope it can run a year or so till I can. It's a vehicle I plan on keeping, restoring it as I can. Yeah, it's an AMC. I realize this is a Mopar forum...

This is an AMC 360 in an 80 SJ Cherokee, I posted earlier about getting it running. It's sat since 91 and after doing a compression test I found a few cylinders that have 30 lbs or less so I want to pull the heads and take them to a machine shop to be fixed. While I have replaced a motor in...

I called around and got prices around 300 then 5-9 dollars for valves as needed. That's me bringing the heads to them of course. If I pull the heads will it be obvious what needs to be done? I have done my own automotive work in the past, swapped motors in an xj, transmissions in a suburban...

Doing a compression test, I got right around 120 on 1,3,5,7 swapped to the other side and #2 reads 30. Will try it wet and see what it reads but not looking good at all. Edit-45 wet. Guess I shouldn't have trusted the guy I got it from when he said it runs with some gas poured into it. I am...

I know how to check the timing but how would I know if the timing chain jumped or check for stuck valves? If the timing chain jump a tooth, would it show up just checking for timing and not being able to get it set? For a stuck valve do I just pull the valve cover and look for a stuck valve?

Thank you guys, if I have time after work I am going to check the timing. I'll follow up with what I find. Thank you all for taking the time to respond.

Alright thanks. I assumed that when I started to feel force under my finger, insert dowel and continue turning by hand till it was at its highest would be the top of the compression stroke. Maybe I'll just pull the vc so I can be certain. I honestly don't know where to start in trying to...

Hey guys, know this isn't a Mopar topic but hoping to get some help. Been working on getting my new to me 1980 Cherokee running, I replaced the carburetor yesterday as the Holley that was on it had been sitting since 1991, thought it easier to just replace. Put on an edelbrock 4105. Same...