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I tried the heat suggestion, but it didn't make a difference for me. I also tried tying it up over night to compress the seam along the length of it. No luck. Any other suggestions? I saw a picture of someone else's on here where they had cut holes in the ends. Maybe to clear the hood bump...

I have a 68 Barracuda and I can't close the hood when I installed the new radiator hood seal. It's from Year One so I think it's made by Soft Seal, but not positive. I have it installed correctly with the opening facing forward. Is there a trick to getting these to work?

Whenever you buy from YearOne, use the weekly coupon code. Today's code is WED813 and you'll save 25%. Do shop around though. But I still recommend Metro.

YearOne carries Metro. Got all my rubber there and had no issues with my 68 Fastback.

Thanks guys! Is this what I should be using? This is what I have, but they don't seem to fit.

Where can I buy the nuts that hold on the hood inserts? I thought I had the originals when they were removed, but that doesn't appear to be the case. Thanks, Eric

All painted up. Instrument Specialties (aka American Muscle Car Restorations) did a great job as usual.

Try Russ Caswell. He's got a nice shop in Tewksbury, MA. He does a lot of plating for smaller items, but he might be worth a call. His cell/business phone is 508-451-1096. Good luck. Eric

I think MVH is correct because my '68 Barracuda came with chrome buttons. I recently purchased a new set of "Chrysler" door handles from Year-One. They are really nice, mechanically smooth and solid. If you search, you'll find a part # for late model vans that are supposed to work too.

But what was original - tint bar across the top or no tint bar?

That's seems to be a popular choice. Thanks!

I ordered a "premium" kit from Year One. All the felts are nice quality and identical to the originals except for the two inner door pieces. These are much thicker than the originals. When installed the door glass wont move up or down. This isn't going to break in with use. Anyone else have...

That's my new plan. Thanks Lawrence!

The switch is good. I was looking for a clean part to go in with the fresh paint. I figured it would be cheaper to just buy a new one. I should have known... Thanks for the help!

Thanks Lawrence! It's a 68 Barracuda. How can you tell it's a variable speed? I was assuming it was a 2 speed because the car isn't very optioned.

Wow $325! Thanks for the quick response. Any other suggestions? I've seen many pictures on here with my style wiper motor that look new. Are they all restored?

My original wiper motor (see pic) has the motor set at an angle to the mounting base. However, when I look up a replacement, they all seem to have the motor mounted straight into the base. Where can I find one similar to mine?

Here are the inserts re-chromed by Paul's in PA. They're off to American Muscle Car Restorations (http://www.amcri1.com/#&panel1-4) to be painted soon. They have the dashboard as well.

Unfortunately I don't. I should have, but I guess I was in such a hurry to get them shipped to Paul's Chrome I never took pictures. They were in real good shape for cores. They had all the original paint still on them. I was surprised they needed engraving to save the step on the out edge...

Just had mine redone by Paul's Chrome in PA. They had to do a "hand engraving" repair to both pieces. $350 each for the chrome and $150 each for the engraving. $1K so far plus $125 for the inserts from ebay. Paul's made them perfect. Next is paint.

Laysons says theirs are made from stainless steal and are not anodized aluminum. Aside from them not being very original, anyone see a problem with this? Appearance or otherwise?

Has anyone purchased these? I'm looking for opinions or thoughts in regards to how original they appear. Seems like a decent alternative to fixing a pretty mangled lower piece. Part #: RD-68ATMP - Top & Bottom trunk moldings (pair). Web Page...

Thanks, RedFish! Anyone regret not anodizing some of their aluminum trim?

What are everyone's thoughts on anodizing restored trim pieces? Should originally anodized parts be re-anodized and why? I should mentioned that I've done some reading here and it appears most people aren't re-anodizing. That seems like a lot of future polishing work to me.

Anyone have experience with the door handles from YearOne? They're way more expensive ($300 last I checked) and I'm wondering why.

So what is the proper way to have these fully restored? Having them chromed and then painted argent seems like a waste of chrome/expense.

Sorry in advance if this is a dumb question - but what is argent? is it the color? Do you have to prep the alum special for argent?

Thanks for the info! Would a chrome shop typically do the painting as well? If not, should I have them fully chromed and then painted separately?

Is the non-shiny center area on these parts painted on? Or was the metal somehow prepared that way?

What's the correct finish for these parts? Mine look like they were chrome, but I've seen many with a non-shiny finish on the top area.