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The spline angle on the output shaft that's different for different years engages into the front planetary, not the rear. The rear planetary is driven by the ring gear and where that ring gear slips on the output shaft, I believe, is the same on all years

Doesn't look like either to me. Maybe it's just my monitor but it looks like small gravel here. Either way about it the trans needs to come out and gone through and everything, and I mean everything, needs flushed good to get that crap out or you'll have the same problem again in no time

I know. Was just sayin because I noticed you didn't say anything about rotating them to get them in

If the inner splines are not aligned you can beat it with a BFH till your blue in the face and they'll never go in

yes the stock sure grip has 2 sets of splines that the axle splines engage into. These splines have to be aligned to get the axle to slide in. Since you drove it their almost undoubtedly not aligned anymore and you'll need to take the 3rd member out and take the sure grip apart and align them...

I doubt that'd work because each piston is designed with a groove that's either for the narrow seal or the wide seal

Justin, try backing out the neutral switch and see if it allows the shift lever to move. If the Neutral safety switch failed it can lock the shift lever. If that doesn't do it you'll have to drop the pan to see what broke or came apart. Tracy

It's common for the dipstick to get "tight" the last inch of insertion. Probably due to the twist they put in them or possibly hanging up on the groove they put in the dipstick for the O-ring. I had one that hung up so bad most of the time you had to twist it when inserting it or you couldn't...

Glad to see you got it Jeff. Happy motoring

Possibly something incorrectly assembled in the valve body or a stuck governor. I'd drop the VB and get out the TF-2 instructions and go back through it and check the governor

I've done it that way in the car too. Using a long thin blade screwdriver helps getting it in there cause it's tight

If the manual valve is adjusted properly it sounds like the rear band isn't applying. Do all forward gears work properly?

Probably missed the pinion depth by a couple thousandths. Some new gears are a bugger. I can tell you this, you don't have much time to correct them before they set in and you'll never be able to get it out so my advice is pull it back out and recheck the pattern. Did you take any pics of the...

I too have never had to put a return spring on the KD lever, even when using a cable. The throttle valve has a internal spring that should do the job. By your description of the shift timing I doubt you need one. Does it still shift soft into 2nd gear? What ratio front band apply lever did you...

That'll soften the engagement some. Really depends on the design of the converter

Yes, you want a gasket. Didn't your filter come with one glued onto it?

That could very well be the problem a the rear clutch feed may be different. Your best bet is to air pressure test things when you get the correct pump. If the lip seal in the rear drum rolled or cut when you installed it that'll cause no forward gears. The rear clutch is responsible for all...

The location "R" is a very common place to see a check ball. I generally leave it out. The only other places you see check balls are in the main body and they're real easy to spot

As for the cost, stop and think of this. How many times in 150k miles has the engine oil and filter changed and what did that cost? Now, that $75 ATF fluid/filter change doesn't look all that expensive, does it?

Call A&A. I had one of their VB's I couldn't find info on and called them and took them less than a minute to look it up and tell me all about it

Darter6 is right. Ask the guy that built the engine if it's internally or externally balanced. If internally your good with what you have. If it was externally balanced it'll most likely take a flexplate designed for a 360 but ask the engine builder just to be sure

Sweet Rogue. My Pop has a 64 American. Your adjusting it correctly. If it shifts a little late loosen up the cable 1 turn at a time until you get it right. BTW: I've noticed some guys trashing the Lokar cable setup but I've used numerous ones on different cars and have one on my personal car and...

I believe you are correct on the thread size of the smaller thread. I know it was smaller and was going off memory and just had surgery and taking pain meds so my memory is clouded. How many large thread 29 spline 741's have you seen? I haven't seen any. Not positive but I always assumed that in...

The preload is set by shims on a 741, not torque like on a 489. And I've seen them strip when torqued too much

A buddy of mine had Biltrite rebuild a converter for him and it worked as expected and he ran it real hard for several yrs. It was a 418 ci tunnel ram with 2 660's on E-85. He wasn't much at tuning but it still ran 11'0. I think someone that knew how to tune it could have got 10.50's out of it

If you do that you might strip the threads. The posting (even in some service manuals) that say a 741 pinion nut should be torqued to 250 ft. lbs is incorrect. It's only a 5/8" thread so it only needs 150 ft. lbs. The newer 489 housing with the larger nut (and consequently larger threads) is the...

I bet the guys are right about it being a lockup but here's a quick easy way to identify any lockup trans. Look at the end of the input shaft. If it has splines nearly all the way to the end it's a non lockup trans. If it has the end machined down smooth for about 1/2-3/4" it's a lockup. Here's...

Not saying it never happened but I never saw one from the factory howl. Don't go crazy tightening that nut or you may strip the threads. It's supposed to be torqued to 150 ft. lbs if I remember right

Wish I could help there but all I can remember is getting it up in the air as high as possible helps. Make sure to unhook the battery as Redfish said just in case one touches the starter positive lead.

Your probably right. That's real hard on them without the TP cable