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Bill is really sharp

Since you have power assist it should be fine Ed. If it weren't power assist it'd probably take both feet to stop it, LOL

That's true but that isn't what I was getting at and never said anything about moving more fluid through a given line size. I was just giving examples of what happens with big vs. small bore size giving the same pedal effort. Moving more fluid through the same line will cause higher pressure but...

The larger the bore the more fluid it moves per given stroke, and consequently the less pressure it produces. Smaller bore M/C's have more pedal travel but pressurize the brakes harder to give better pedal feel.

That's sure a good price. Good to know in case I need one in the future.

How much was it?

Excellent man! Thanks a ton for the link. I searched all over for a rebuild kit for my valve and coulnd't come up with one but they have it and it's only $15

Eddie that one will actually work ok as long as the plunger isn't stuck inside. It doesn't have 2 of the circuits the disc/drum valve has but it will still work, just not quite as good, but it won't cause the problems you are having unless the plunger is stuck. If you take the plug out of the...

Good luck Eddie, and sorry for getting off track.

Concerning the valves that were used on A-bodies, calling it a proportioning valve is technically incorrect. It is not a proportioning valve, no matter what anybody calls it. Think about it, what does the word proportion mean? It basically means "difference or differential". A proportioning...

Eddie that's the old style you usually see on drum brake cars. It will work on a drum/disc car but doesn't have a hold off valve for the drum side so it doesn't work quite as good. Forgot to mention that the valve isn't really a proportiong valve. It is just a distribution block with a switch...

The Right Stuff sells lines at good prices. I see a complete front end kit (don't see just a M/C to valve kit) listed in the book for power and std. brakes but nothing designating disc/drum. You might look on their website www.getdiscbrakes.com and see what you find.

Yeah it seems the front drums aren't a problem. Glad I bought my rear drums when I did. That was about 4 yrs. ago at O'Reilley's and they were only about $30 a piece. Too bad they don't still have them.

Tom have you ever compared them to see if a front drum would work? It looks like it separates from the hub. Just a thought. It's been 30 yrs. since I worked on front drum brakes and I never bothered to check to see if they would interchange cause back then you could get anything you wanted at...

Dang! Your right. Sorry, I looked at it wrong.

JC Whitney shows them for $35 each. Here's a link http://www.jcwhitney.com/bendix-oe-replacement-brake-drum/p3039356.jcwx?skuId=3677850&filterid=d1763y1968g2j1 Don't go by the picture. It says it's just representative of a brake drum. The description sounds right for the small bolt pattern...

Thanks bud. I'll check them out.

Does anyone have a suggestion for good high performance brake pads and shoes? The front discs on my Cuda are off a 74 Duster so their std. A-body stuff. The rear brakes are 10 by 2-1/2" drum units off an E-body. It is a non power brake system and works ok but their due for a rebuild and I'd like...

Don't know if they have them now but I bought a new set of drums a few yrs. ago for my 68 Cuda at O'Reilley's for about $50 each. They weren't the bell type like the originals but they work fine.

A proportioning valve limits brake fluid flow to brakes. The factory mopar A-body brake valve is not a proportioning valve. It's just a distribution block and safety valve. It provides the needed dual output to both front wheels and if you pop a brake line either leading to the front or back the...

Eddie proper forum etiquette is if you have a question, start your own thread. When you jump into someone else's thread and ask a question it can get confusing. Some guys even get mad about it. But to answer your question the driveshaft length is different on all 3 rearends because the yoke...

Yes this is alot of great info and I really appreciate it. The only 2 things I knew for sure was they would bolt up to the rearend housing cause their (7-1/4, 8-1/4, and 8-3/4) all the same flange pattern and I knew the register had to match the axle. I figured their would be an offset diff. but...

I think your right Robert. From everything I've read their all the same bolt pattern on the housing ends. I have not proved that in person but that gives me something else to look for. In fact it's entirely possible these came from a vehicle with something other than an 8-3/4 and that's why I...

Yeah their 11x2 and they are rear brakes. Apparently their an oddball size. I didn't know it or I wouldn't have bought them. At least I got them cheap. I went to NAPA and me and the guy dug all through the books and couldn't come up with any rear brakes that were 11x2. All the 11" rear brakes...

Glad to see they gave you good service. Good luck with it Larry.

Only other thing that might be an issue is finding a set of brake drums that fit. You know, correct bolt pattern, correct hub register, and correct offset. You may already know this but if you get a Mopar axle flange gasket and lay on the backing plate and mark it you can use that as a drill...

That's the way mine usually goes too. LOL

I just acquired a nice set of 11x2" brakes. Not sure what their off of other than some other Mopar. My plan is to replace the small 10x1-3/4 brakes on the back now with them and hopefully have better holding rear brakes cause the stock ones suck. Question is has anybody done this and if so what...

Hum..... I put DOT5 fluid in my Cuda when I rebuilt the brakes about 5 yrs. ago. I installed every part new so there was no DOT 3 or 4 in the system. To this day they work great and no leaks. Good firm pedal too. I wonder what was different about mine that it works?

What might have confused them is Ford is famous for having innumerable combination's used on most anything they produced. They look like big Ford car (LTD, etc..) brakes to me.