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Changing the manifold will have the same affect on power as it did when you had the carb on it. All you did was swap your carb for a electronically controlled fuel atomizer. I'd keep the Air-gap. Test after test has proven it to be one of the best street/strip intakes made

But what about hood clearance? The factory "beer keg" manifold is really tall. I haven't measured one but by looking I'd be real surprised if it'd fit under the hood of an a-body without cutting a hole in the hood and adding a scoop. Something I would not want to do My apologies for posting off...

Funny how much it has in common with the FITech. Was planning on purchasing the FITech this spring when taxes get here but I think I'll wait to see what happens with this one

As 72BLUNBLU said in post #2 explain the stumble more in detail (does it hesitate when you just give it a little gas or does it hesitate when you floor it, etc) and a complete run down of your engine build sure would help. If your going to ask a technical question please have the courtesy to...

Because at wide open throttle the air velocity is so great that even with a carb the fuel is atomized very well. The big advantage to and EFI setup is not wide open power, it's good fuel atomization at low to medium engine speeds which relates to smoother idle and better all around driveability...

Understood. I thought maybe you didn't know about the notched float, thus the reason I mentioned it. BTW: one thing that puzzles me is you mentioned the dyno guy installed the jet extensions to make it easier to change the secondary jets (paraphrased). Do you have the quick change jet float...

The problem isn't anything with the extensions themselves, the problem is you don't have a notched float. Holley sells a notched float to clear the jets when using extensions http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-116-15

To prevent the chance of fire due to spilled fuel I use them then immediately after take them out when I have it set and put the brass plugs back in. One time I had one freeze up in the fuel bowl even though I had just put it in and it went in with ease. Broke the dang thing off trying to get it...

That ain't no fun. It's only supposed to get to -7 here for the high tomorrow. :mumum:

Ok, good luck. Wish it was only raining here. Here's a view out my back door, LOL

Ok, that's the correct place If the idle rises when you unhook it that means it's pulling vacuum there and the reason the idle rises is you've created a vacuum leak by unhooking the hose. It also means you have the primary idle speed set so high it's exposing that port to vacuum which should...

Where is it hooked up to the carb? The baseplate or off the passengers side of the front metering block?

Getting the distributor dialed in will help a lot. Below is a link to an article that details how it's done. Something else I do that they don't mention is not only check the reluctor gap with the vacuum advance at rest but also when it's pulled to max. I do this because the reluctor plate due...

The valve springs may not be the right springs for the cam but they won't affect idle like your describing. The only possible way a valve spring would ever affect idle is if it's totally shot and letting the valve hang open at idle causing the cylinder to misfire which would cause a slow rough...

I'd suspect a restriction in the channel leading to the manifold port. In over 30 yrs. of rebuilding carbs I haven't seen one do that but something must be happening along those lines since your sure you have them correct. It's not big deal if you don't need to use that port. But you need to...

Are you sure your correct on what port is ported and what one is manifold? It sounds to me like you have them switched because the manifold vacuum should be the higher of the 2. There's no possible way anything in a carb can amplify vacuum. Like 73 Dart pointed out you really shouldn't have any...

Carb tuning. Centrifugal advance weights in the dist. either sticking or the springs are a little too light. Vacuum leak. Just to name a few

Well it took me long enough but I finally got the new Holley HP150 pump installed. The weather has turned off much cooler so it's hard to say if the problem is solved but I think it should be cause it holds a constant 6.5 psi under full throttle all the way through the 1/4 but I guess I won't...

I just put this one on my Holley. I like it cause you can screw a fuel filter directly into it and also comes with a fuel pressure gauge fitting. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/110822/10002/-1?parentProductId=753678 Here's the filter I used. It has a -6 male inlet but...

I haven't tried jetting it up when it acts up because on cool days it never lays down. Have held it to 120 and it was still pulling hard. When I put the carb on I started out with 75's and 82's and it was real rich. Down in the high 10's if I remember right. That's why I have it jetted way down...

Will do. Had something come up today so I didn't get it finished but I will tomorrow. May not get to drive it till Tues. though cause their calling for rain the next few days.

I believe the biggest problem is the ethanol content in the fuel. That explains why it only acts up mostly on hot days. I bought a little fuel tester to test the fuel from some of the stations around me. The station that I used the most is the local Shell station. It doesn't advertise having...

It probably ran too rich because the power valve or gasket was leaking past. That was another issue with mine. As soon as I replaced the gasket it leaned out over 1/2 point according to my A/F gauge. Glad your happy with your new one. That's all that really matters. If you want to sell that...

I rebuilt several AVS and AFB carbs in the 80's when I was doing it full time and they all had either a ball or needle. Like Rocky said it's required to keep the fuel from flowing back into the bowl. I have a butter bowl of small parts so if you need a needle or ball just PM me.

Did you ever check the power valve? I just had the exact same problem with a new Holley 750HP I installed and when I took it apart to check it out I found the power valve gasket wasn't sealing. Installed a new gasket and it starts fine every time now. IMO you took a step back going to an Edelbrock

Would you (or anybody else) know if they have to post on the pump if it has ethanol in it? I thought they did and have seen it on some pumps but never on Shell pumps so I assumed it's ethanol free and that's where I got gas the last time and it still does it. Next time I need gas I will try a...

Yep. It's sure hard on fuel lines and carb diaphragms.

Every time in the past that's what I've found but this is the 4th fuel pump I've had on it and it acts exactly the same way. Of the 4 pumps 2 were new (1 Carter HV and this Edelbrock HV) and 2 were used (1 Carter HV and 1 Holley HV). The used Holley pump came off a buddies low 10 second race...

Carbs a Holley 750HP. My engine is pretty efficient so I didn't have to jet it very fat at all, 71's in the front and 78's in the back. You'd think with jets that small it wouldn't require much fuel. I have a 1" Moroso plastic spacer under the carb and I shot the carb with the temp gun and...

Unfortunately I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to watch when it happens. I may have to install one to verify it. I have checked for restrictions from the tank all the way to the carb and can't find anything that's glaringly obvious. No tight bends on the line and all the hose is relatively...