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Look in the bore of the new master cylinder. There should be a groove for the little rubber retainer to lock into. Bench bleed the master cylinder. They sell kits cheap at the auto parts store. Mount the master, line up the push rod, and just step on the pedal to lock the rod into the bore. You...

I second talking to Dr Diff. Good guy, very smart.

You never said whether you actually checked the master cylinder fluid. If you didn't, start there.

I was thinking that if you used the MC adapter, it would move the MC out the thickness of the adapter. Maybe like was said, try the adjustable push rod.

I was just reading in MA how to test the booster. Take a vacuum pump, and pull a vacuum. It takes a lot of pumping. See if it holds. No hold, no good. But, as stated before, when a booster is bad, and you step on the pedal, it will start idling rough.

I used the SSBC kit. I think summit sells it now. They used the KH calipers, and the rotors were drilled for both bolt patterns. So, if I want to go big bolt pattern, I can.

I just installed a set of the braided stainless lines from Dr. Diff. Fit well, no leaks. I would definitely recommend him.

What i think, is that they used the front drums for both front, and rear, which we know is not the same.

Well, who knows what the chinese are thinking when they make their junk.

I would also have a clean up cut done on the drums braking surface. Mine were making all kinds of racket, until I had them turned.

I had this same problem on my Dart. Its not the backing plates. It's china junk. I had a machinist buddy cut 1/4 inch off the edge, and the little flange on the drum needs cutting back also. Check your measurements though. It's been a while since I did this.

Might need a bigger bore MC. I have the larger 2.75 caliper pistons on the front and i had to use 1 1/8.

You can try the 15/16 MC, but since you are using the brakes from a 76, the question is what size caliper piston. The 73 up was 2.60, and around 1976 they went to 2.75 caliper piston. This is what I have, and I had to use a 1 1/8 inch MC.

I've seen posts where others had no problem with the 15/16 bore. I did.

First thing I would fix, would be the pivot pin. It probably doesn't have anything to do with your issue, but I don't want to find it was something that I assumed was not the issue. Second. I went with the larger rotors, and calipers. I could not get a pedal. Went to a 1 1/32 master cylinder...

I keep looking at your setup, and it looks like you have the upper control arms on the wrong side. You should have tons of adjustment with those UCA's. And, I thought the top of the spindle should be behind the spindle center.

That is the stock brake setup for A bodies.

I thought power brake cars used a bigger bore MC. 1 1/32.

I put EBC pads on my 64 Sport Fury, and there was a noticeable improvement. I used the red pads.

If you are doing a disc brake swap, that is the wrong master cylinder. Not enough volume. 1973 disc brake master cylinder with 15/16 bore will work.

Right or wrong, I have the MC without the retaining groove. Been working fine for 10 years. I did use the boot and retainer. The pedal stop /stoplight switch keeps it in place.

I'm guessing it's $15 to turn rotors at oreillys. Also don't buy the Harbor freight seal driver. It's so bad, I'm returning it. The discs are made of plastic, and the threads in the handle are so loose, I'm surprised the bolt would tighten.

:popcorn:

I just want to add, that when I went to the 2.75 bore caliper, I was running the 15/16 bore master cylinder. Could not get any pressure. I went to the 1 1/32 bore master, and instant brakes. Apparently, in my situation, the 15/16 master didn't move enough volume.

You better be good at fabrication. You're going to put an engine, and transmission in a car that was never designed for that setup. So, you get to build your own motor mounts, and trans mount. Then you get to build your own headers, cause nothing will drop in. The rear will be a piece of cake...

I agree with the others.fix your engine issues first. That might be all you need.

How old are the flex lines? They will swell up inside, and look fine outside. Somtimes you have to work your way backwards, at each fitting, to find out where you are getting fluid. Then you know where the problem is.

I'm happy with the way my car stops. I fine tuned it a little more by using smaller bore rear wheel cylinders, per Richard Erinbergers article. Probably could have done the same with an adjustable prop valve. I don't have residual valves on my car. I understand they are for when the MC is...

I don't have a mis match. I went from the 11 inch rotors, to 12inch. Everything worked fine. I wanted more stopping power, so, i put on the 2 3/4 calipers. Changed nothing else. Couldn't get a pedal, no matter how much bleeding. I went from the 15/16 bore MC, to the 1 1/32 MC. Instant pedal. No...

When I went to the larger bore caliper, i had to use a 1 1/32 bore MC to get a pedal. The 15/16 bore MC didn't move enough volume.