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The young techs don't have the old books to go buy. They will do a bad job, unless you give them the specs, and then they ***** about no warranty. Read up, you can do it with a 2' level and a tape measure. I was a dealer front end mech; I do it at home now. Hell with $80.

It all hurts anymore. It hurts to get of of bed. This old cars are quick to draw blood. lol. But not that many people have one.

nothing in this thread makes any sense. Pull the bar out, and re-clock it correctly.

For it to dive into the turn something is serious loose.

Move them in the same operation.

Bolts to arm- any grade 8 will work, as long as 2 threads sticking out of the self-locking nut. Idler- it gets crazy and frustrating here. Most Autozone, Advanced, Napa are wrong. Took me 3 trys on a Duster, and a Buddy 4 trys on a Charger to get the correct one. Cotter pin. Or a locking nut...

Forgot, if it pulls to one side, that side needs less caster. Start all over. I used to work at a Chebby dealer, smack in the middle of old lady's. Moan about the car pulling, until I figured out what crowned streets they used, Then adjusted caster for that.

From an old front end tech. Wander is not enough + caster. Period. I'll try to explain how to do it at home. Jack up under lower ball joints, take tires off. Now loosen upper control arm bushings and crank them to the point of the upper ball joint is as far back as possible. This is positive...

Wrong side or made wrong.

Loosen the nut to just above the end of the shaft. Put your knees behind the wheel, push up, and smack the nut with a hammer.

Kim is correct. I back-haled a Duster, went to 4 link. You have to put it on jack stands,(rear end has to be jacked up to ride height, same with lca's), level the car, drop plumb bobs from all 4 wheels. Each one from the same point; like, lower ball joint fitting, rear axle face, Takes a level...

It can be a biatch. 3 ilders out there, parts store computers have no clue. Buy all 3, take 3 back.

It will fit only one way. Center the box; then one slot is bigger, in the splines. A 2 person job, to see which one has the better cusswords. The guy underhood, guiding, or the guy in a bind inside, trying to twist and push, while every muscle un-known, is getting a work-out. Then, bingo, slides...

To look cool in the late 60's and early 70's; to get bigger tires under it- you still cut the tires up around corners, in general, to ruin your kidneys, and make you have to piss often. And buy more, as a good bump would blow something.

Basically, you don't need the shop. Buy a 2' level. Take the tire off. Ball joint to ball joint centers is caster. Tire on, level on it is camber. Toe in is a tape from the rear of the ties ,to the front of the tires, Alignment guy free, now.

Just have the springs re-arched for $200.

something loose, somewhere.

Guess you found the master spline.

Wow, some people have thin skin in here. The bolt at the lca needs to be torqued to 130 foot lbs, on the ground.

Ooops, not spindle, but out of lca.

Take out the cotter pins, loosen the nuts, then start smacking the ball joint at the tapered connections; the spnidle and tie rod will fall out. Easiest way; That's how the dealer techs do it.

They raised the back to clear the tires, pure and simple (been there in the 60;s), It turned out that it actually hurt et. Then along came Dick Landy, and others, with the lower link bar; the forerunners of the ladder bars, 4 links, and the cheap traction bars.. think about weight transfer-...

Go to tractor supply, buy their best. You can also easily bend the ears on the kmember, at the idler, lowering the center link from the headers. I've run cheap hookers on 2 a bodies for years, no problem. What part is wallerring? Hope not the centerlink it-self. That would be- not tightened enough.

When you adjust camber, you will also change the caster.

Yeah, camber basically a hair -; caster, all you can get; toe in- depends on how tight the suspension is, used? 1/8. Just check the tire scrub every month, and adjust.

Lube; 2 people, slick stuff; 2 people cussing; more slick stuff, hernias. Voila! That pos is on. Easier to do off the car, in a vise.

Just drive the pin out, keep it together. Pin seems to be one-way at times.

x2

Camber changing? Bushings or ball joint.

A harbor freight protractor, a 2 foot level, and a tape-good to go.