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measure, then Napa.

If it gets off-center; pump brakes, slowly press pedal until you feel a click, stop pressing, close the bleeder. Not clear, 2 people there. Been 45 years, done a lot of them, can't remember, seems bleed the front, for the click-oh, light will go out too.

If you could find a 7/8", ..... sweet. I know it seems backwards, but smaller bore=less leg.

Have a 70 Duster, had a 70 swinger; stock from the factory.

I'm thinking right and left side. The old manuals were. Now after 2 beers, seem to remember converting 69 to auto, had to ask for r and left. Local parts store, they have the plugs for the holes.

All my books in shop; getting senile. Seems like a left and right. They have to pull up.

If it expands in reverse, then it is correct. Seems like they always go on the rear shoe. and expand up, from the lever.

Wrong parts, just manually adjust them like we did before 1967.

Just read your earlier; keep opening each end, easy pedal, stop pedal movement at the click, hold it, tighten bleeder

Open the front, and push pedal until you feel it click.

High temp lithium.

Now, bleed, starting from the furtherest, and move forward. Never push the pedal to the floor, that will trip the valve. Once half bleed, start over, halfway; guy pushing the pedal can now feel the click, as valve moves. Repeat until air out, if light is on; push pedal-slowly bleed one end of...

add to dot5, just bleed the whole system. Put valve on rear line, test and adjust. If original drums, leave it. And smaller m/c bore easier on the leg.

Ever slammed on the brakes at 100mph, and experience brake fade, with drums? Twice for me, converted to front disc manual. I can stop, now.

Adjust the brakes while you are at it.

Napa or anybody; just get a 7/8" bore.

OK, I missed the manual part. Does the brake light come on? valve needs to be re-centered.

You know, you really have an arrogant attitude; Just help people, please.

Yep, bleeder on top?. Dash brake light working? You can send the prop valvle off, bleeding. Feel a click when depressing? It's off center. Have buudy step on pedal, loosen a rear until click, or brake light goes off. Never ever push the pedal to the floor, while bleeding.

Get rid of the clamp, clueless why it is there. New master needed, if it doesn;t come with rubber bushing, make one from vacuum hose.

excuse me.

What frame? Unibody. Loop down to the rear, bracket there to hold it up, then to tee at rear cables. Then use pliers to pull back the sheathing, and ... what? should be threads on the rear end. You mean front? Pull cable out with pliers.

The shoe that is shorter at the top is the primary, and goes on the front. From an ex-front end and brake guy; I did it for 5 years.

Booster.

Some shoes just stink; different material. Upper springs look different, but if the drum came off, ok. Some material glazes easier. If no problem pulling drum off, adjustment fine, drum will wear. Auto adjusters look good. Are the fronts stopping first? (weight of the car there). Could be prop...

I've found them at parts stores, or just get a brass adapter.

New line.

Just tell them 67 gtx; then tell them to search catalog for 11x 2.

Tried adjusting?

It ain't the drums, it is the rims.