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There are reference charts, materials, etc., that have amp draws for various electrical loads such as head lamps, tail lights, blower motors, and other stock equipment. You can also reference loads for cooling fans, sound systems, power seats, a/c clutches and on. Tally up the loads on one side...

6 years ago I had this too in my 68 Scout. Did all the checks and cleaning. Finally a new regulator, electronic, kept voltage and lights rock steady. On average these electro-mechanical units can cycle up to 200 cycles per second(Hz), to our eyes that's steady voltage. Points pit or oxide...

This is one of the reasons I never took the plunge for LED for my old iron, especially ones with working radios. I've installed LED track lighting in the house, and doing research prior to that I've discovered the importance of FCC compliance. While FCC doesn't apply here, again I've...

If this regulator is original to the car, after 40+ years, it may be just senile. Try a substitution with a new one. If the problem persists, then you will KNOW if it's circuit or alternator related.

Flickering headlights usually indicates a regulator aging out, but make sure the connections in the regulator's circuit are clean and tight. Resistance in this circuit can also cause fluctuating voltage. I would check the belt's condition, proper tension, and the pulleys before replacing the...

We'll just have to see what it does in crank mode later on. You could pull the wire on the starter solenoid to keep it from engaging; then with the key in START position you'll be able to see if the bypass wire gives the 12 or so volts on the load side of the resistor.

Now, check the voltage to the coil with the key in the "START" position.

On the ballast resistor there should be 3 wires. 1 on one side, and 2 on the side going to the coil. The 2 on the side to the coil is 1 feed that is regulated by the resistor, the other is a bypass feed from the ignition switch. The bypass feed bypasses the resistor during start mode and you...

The capacitor is for RFI suppression, cuts the noise out of the radio. If you leave the power applied to the coil, and the points are closed, you can fry the points. You can also cook an electronic trigger module unless it has a feature to shut itself off such as in a Pertronix II. No, you do...

If that metal can looking deal above the coil is what you're calling the resistor, it's actually a condenser(capacitor), just unhook it for now. As there's no switch yet, do not leave the coil energized to the battery for more than 1/2 a minute or so. When it's hooked up ready to fire except...

For starters, remove the resistor before you fry it. It is to go in the B+ feed to the coil. But for now just remove it. What triggers the primary circuit? Points or electronic?