Search results for query: *

Interesting. Yeh, what I read was a certain wire color should go to the small connector on the module. Worth a try, with the swap. Reluctor is installed correctly.

Somewhere I found information about polarity of the pickup wires. They are wired correctly. I don't want to swap them 'just to see' because I think it will damage the module or cause a weak spark. I think we are on the right track with rotor phasing and rotor gap. There are some guys here on...

A. Already had to do that when I was driving it. B. I can't let it whoop me. C. He's heard so much good about HEI, that he won't give it up.

Mine has the two keyways. It's installed correctly. We tried to install it in the big block location but, that made the phasing even worse.

Testing on the 340 was delayed by a bunch of other projects. Here is what we found this past weekend: Average gap between rotor tip and button in the cap was .120". We extended the brass rotor tab and now have an average gap of .030". Drilled a hole in another cap and checked rotor phasing with...

I was thinking of making a ceramic distributor rotor. That's MY idea and I'm gonna patent it. :lol:

If it were up to me, I'd go with a dual points distributor. But, bro owns the car and says HEI stays. Now that I think about it, I might keep a points distributor in the trunk. Vacuum sealed package and a distributor wrench.

Thanks for all the inputs. oldkimmer: brass contacts in the cap Dana67Dart: Going through the center of the rotor. kitcarlson: Getting an O scope is not practical at the moment. Interesting data. I used the Sun machines, way back. Very useful tool. I will consider a ballast resistor. but that...

I'll take some time and definitely read the link you posted. The cap and rotor were originally whatever came from the local parts house. That rotor (white) failed by carbon tracking. Bought new Accel tan cap and rotor. I've got the paperwork stashed somewhere. but, it was advertised to...

I've been rejecting the chevy transplant but bro. insists it stay there.

Need some help with a failed ignition system. I did a Forum search and found one result that might be helpful, I'll get to that in a bit. Here's the setup: '72 340 Mopar. Has been converted to use a GM HEI module. Blaster II coil recently replaced as part of troubleshooting. Symptoms occurred...

Trailbeast, Thanks for posting that. Interesting you mentioned you use the stock OE distributor. One concern I have is that the Ohm resistance with the pickup coil is not compatible with the GM module. GM pickup coils are 500 to 1500 ohms according to my internet research. OE was measured to be...

If you are referring to my symptoms listed above, the "lone spark" was during Start, while cranking. The key was being held at Start and the one spark occurred during cranking. I certainly agree that we are dealing with wiring components that are far older than Chrysler ever considered them to...

Trailbeast, Tell me about your conversion kits or direct me to a place on the forum/internet that I can learn about it, please. Do you still sell them? Pictures? I'm very interested. The components on my car appear to be a hodgepodge of parts.

The relay was installed previously. This HEI system was on the car when purchased. (it's been a nuisance *iScamp's brother's opinion*). As for reluctor gap. Because the advance plate pivots around a different point than the center shaft, the gap changes as the plate moves.

I always hear the virtues of the HEI , here and on Youtube. But, I"ll go along with your comment.

did remove the plastic nubs off the module. It's flat against a metal surface.

4 pin module. No ballast. Same as the diagram you show, except mine has a relay.

Hi FABO Mopar Gurus, I did a forum search and found some interesting bits but, not my specific problem. Such as Smokinnjokin's thread. So here's the setup: 340 with OEM distrbutor. New pickup coil (280 ohms according to my meter) New HEI module (activated by a relay) Blaster 2 coil. (.7 ohms...

We're doing fine. Thanks. 40+ years playing with cars, I've got a few "jockey" stories myself. Always glad to help.

Gotta go for a couple of hours. The little woman wants to go grocery shopping and dinner out.

Yes, those are high numbers for a ground circuit. But, your charging system seems to be doing o.k. by the last readings. So, two things come to mind: 1. The alternator has "found" another ground path back to the battery. And your designated ground straps/wires are just window dressing...

14.02v alternator output is right on the money. 13.72v at battery post is o.k. .3 volt drop is nothing harmful.

here's the readings: battery at start 12.50 F1 (blue wire) 11.11 That's o.k. You are getting supply voltage from the VR. F2 I get nothing by connecting the F1 and F2 with a test light (tested/working), while running at idle. One end of the test light in the blue wire, F1. The other end in the...

Take the alternator completely off the engine. Clean all the bolts/threads/ holes. A steel bushing is normal, shouldn't be a problem. Is the bushing or alternator painted?

Thanks. Doing fine. I'm 130 miles inland, not too bad. Often just pulling the connections apart and putting them back together will clean it up enough. But, the more you can clean, the better.

Test light is a little easier to work with than meter probe ends. No chance of frying your meter, either. No, it won't give you a high reading. But, all you're looking for is a bright light. Probe the battery posts, note the brightness of the light. Probe F1 and F2 and note if the brightness...

The bulkhead connector is a prime source for poor connections. Bolting the two ammeter leads together (clean terminal ends) should do just fine.

That is often true with digital volt meters. However, to do the test just described, the ignition switch will have to be "on" for the regulator to sense something. This is where an analog meter works or a test light. Could disconnect both F1 and F2 wires. Probe those wires with a test light...

Sorry for the late response, the hurricane was causing erratic power fluctuations here at the house. So, I turned off the computer for a day or so. 12.3 volts, engine running as you know is bad. 14.0 volts +/- .2 volts is target value for alternator output. Engine off, ignition key in Run...