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without knowing the engine specs you can't do anything but guess, but if it truly has a small cam a stock 2300 stall converter is perfect

I ran a dynamic 9 1/2" in a warm 340. It drove nice for the most part and supplied lo end torque lost to a 224 / 230 duration cam. I did get tired of "driving through" it coming out of corners and down hills. I now prefer a stock at 340 converter around 2300 rpm stall.

Tx Rumble and RR...i was looking for a post from 70Dart in the thread. I'm outa' my league with those numbers and have no idea for his converter.

and again...cam specs, or did i miss them?

can you massage the flat spot out?

Read AJ's posts carefully and you'll see he is usually correct. As for the converter i know guys who have installed overdrive transmissions and their mileage was worse. The parts have to compliment each other for the intended result.

what is your rear gear ratio and tire size?

52" ...that's a common size driveshaft for a lot of b body mopars.

You're fine...the problem is me lol!

You can't have a mopar "posi"...but maybe a sure grip. Why does that bother me when a mopar centre section is called a chev nickname?

Oh my...what does it flash to right now and why are you not happy with the current piece..too loose.. stall too low...no launch...poor mileage? Exactly what are you looking for that you currently don't have?

..and i think that is a good idea for a cheap high stall converter that creates a lot of slip and friction. But a high quality converter like dynamic 9 1/2" is very tight with very little slip (3%) unless you flash it. Converters have come a long way...still there are older inefficient or...

Very grey topic. The tube in your rad is to warm your transmission fluid..especially in winter or cool weather. Optimal temperature is 170 - 190 degrees.Delta T says the bottom of your rad is about about 30 cooler than the top so the fluid is being warmed to about 160 degrees by your rad.The...

my stock A body driveshafts hardly weigh anything...

2.76:1...don't laugh. A few years ago a fellow pulled in to our strip with a Duster running a 408. Promptly ran an 11.76! His rear gears were 2.76! Said his problem was traction!

2600 stall, 26" tire...408. 3.23:1 all day long

...i had that problem on a previous build. Got frustrated and just left the dust cover off. I'll try your solution if i have the problem on my current project. Great Info! Tx

If you are hooking on launch with that much power you will break things.Street tires will just break loose.Slicks and suspension for them are a different matter.

i'm with AJ...904 with low first and second gear.With that hp in an A body you should be able to run a 3.23 rear gear which will be the same as 3.6:1 in first but final drive is 3.23. The fly in the ointment would be if you had a long duration cam which would kill lo rpm torque. What cam are...

...and what stroker..372 or 416? is it an A body..B body...Truck?

it will depend on your cam and vehicle weight. 450 hp could be a bit lazy below 2500 rpm. You have to look at the whole package. How did you come up with 450 hp?

i wouldn't worry about it.Plugs look good and it'll probably last a long time!

OK...it's not your 30" tires!

There's your problem.Get a pair of 26" tires for the back.

what is your tire size?

with a light car on street tires and stock suspension you are probably good to go. you might not break parts until you start hooking with a heavy ride.

Rumble is correct...that cam will start pulling at 800 rpm and should break your rear tires loose with a stock converter.

that looks great!

i can see a nice deuce with primered fenders and a bit of rust repair, finished inside and mechanically sound like the original hot roders built with limited funds.That's the way it started. But to deliberately make something appear rotted and unpleasant is puzzling?

they were left bare. use RPM (rust preventative magic) from ECS for all your bare metal components unless it will see salt, snow and weather regularly