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The regulator uses fuel pressure to either bypass or not beyond a certain adjustment setting. There is no electrical function in the regulator. Most fuel systems don't have a one way valve to hold previously pressurized fuel in your high pressure side of the fuel circuit. My factory Magnum JTEK...

Do you have a full bypass return or a deadhead return set-up? See here for more info. https://www.vaporworx.com/resources/fds/1-fuel-delivery-101/

I used a model very similar to the ones shown in the link posted just above this post. I never went back and posted pictures for this response, so here they are. Sorry for the delay.

I'm going to retire soon, and plan on living significantly higher in elevation. I hate the power loss I feel when I drive up there, so I'm working towards putting super chargers on two of my rides. I want to run chillers on the air intakes. Chillers are the heat exchangers fitted on the intake...

I'm thinking heat soak will become an issue when using the factory style steel lines and routing, although you can always insulate it. Does your current fuel line shown in the photos interfere with the air cleaner of something? Why change it, especially since that carb is not stock to begin with.

I wired in both a low pressure oil pressure switch and a hidden 12V bypass switch to bypass that low oil pressure switch to address priming the system prior to start up. You might also want to attach a Holley Hydra Mat to your fuel pickup tube, so your system is less likely to have cavitation...

I had the unit out of the car, used a step drill to carefully enlarge the 1/4" return hole ( used small micro torch to heat and remove original 1/4" fitting) until my 3/8 steel tube fit tightly and used 2 small pairs of vice grip plyers to act as heat sinks while I silver soldered the tube in...

I silver soldered a 3/8's" return fitting onto my replacement unit that had a 1/4" return nipple.

Unless you have a carb with screw in air bleeds, you will need to drill out your factory pressed in air bleeds and relocate them to the metering block, This involves drilling out two holes oversize, tapping the larger holes and installing screw in air bleeds into the metering block to relocate...

Which ever pump you decide to go with, add a return line to your fuel system, so you don't have a deadhead style set-up. It's not difficult to do and doesn't cost a lot, but it helps keep your fuel cooler, helps defeat vapor lock and is easier on the pump. You can feed it using either a return...

I used a DeatschWerks pump. They make quality stuff, and have surge tank kits too. DeatchWerks

I made my own return/in-tank pump "module" using a fresh sending unit with a 1/4" return already in it. I removed the 1/4" line, enlarged the hole and silver soldered a 3/8th's steel return line in it. I then drilled and fitted a fuel tight bulkhead style electrical connection to the sending...

I never liked the split second disconnected/delayed reaction upon opening and closing that the vacuum secondaries have. Mind you, I'm not talking about a bog that can be felt from the vacuum carbs not being set up right. There is a short but measurable delay from gas pedal input while waiting...

Are you running a Deadhead or Bypass system? Many good quality, affordable pumps use the constant flow of fuel to cool themselves both by continually flowing through it and by being submerged in it. With these types of pumps, you need to use a bypass system to allow for constant flow. A...

I see. It's sounding like one possible approach is to add the crank trigger and the coil near plug set-up as an ignition upgrade a bit down the line. It will make it easier to get the basic EFI up and running with less down time using the dual sync with conventional spark distribution. It will...

I appreciate the idea of using the pan rail bolts. It never occurred to me to fab something with steel, which I can weld. Also, ever since I started soaking my timing chains in Redline synthetic gear oil for a few days before installing them, my timing chains have virtually stopped gaining...

I watched the video from Holly on the Hyperspark system, and am impressed. Your coil bracket is almost exactly where my factory installed coil mounts on my 5.9 Magnum. Very clean looking. HyperSpark Ignition - Holley If I step up to the more tuneable Holley Multiport systems using one of the...

What are you doing with the ignition on this one?

Can we get more info on your process of adding idle circuits to the outboards and the effect it had on the idle adjustment/mixture settings? Also, what does the 4412 change involve? Thanks, any photos of the process would be nice too.

You can either sell this Edelbrock kit and go for an intank returnless set-up like AndyF recommends or feed this system with a stock mechanical fuel pump or low pressure electric pump. This Edelbrock external sump/surge tank system already has a returnless electric pump inside it, so it needs a...

I had to look up the part number for what you posted to see what it was. Looks like a surge tank system without the return. It is limited to 7 psi max pressure on the input side, so you are limited in which pump you can use to feed the fuel to it. If you already have a stock style low pressure...

On a related note, the fuel injection clamps and EFI rated rubber hose is typically a much better grade of components compared to regular Hygear clamps and rubber hose. The EFI clamps tend not to cut the hose and create an more secure seal.

I agree. It does look nice though. I used Earl's fittings on my DC 6pack carbs. The fuel stays cooler than having that line getting heated up by the intake manifold too.

I silver soldered a 3/8's" steel line in place of the 1/4" return on an aftermarket sending unit. I had to get the real silver solder from a welding supply company as all the fake silver solder seemed to be sold by the local chain hardware stores. It never leaked.

Well, it looks like it might not then. A few years back, I found a technique on the internet to set up an inexpensive method to back flush and clean them using some common shop tools/supplies. It worked very well and only cost a few bucks to do. Then again, I had pumped some contaminated gas...

It might be more cost effective to replace them with a matched set from these guys... Custom OEM Fuel Injectors from FiveoMotorsport

Right! I never liked the disconnected feeling between the gas pedal and the control of the outboards on my six pack motors, so I've always used the DC Performance mechanical Holley's. I absolutely love the way the feel, look and perform. I'd never go back to the vacuum secondary stock versions...

I run a return style regulator, so yes in my case. I silver soldered in a 3/8" return.

Hey, what's wrong with putting it in the tank. It's easy.

Not too good, unless you kept the fuel in the tank above the half way point. Doing it this way might be ok, if you just wanted to get the car running etc.