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FWIW, Smokey Yunik was said to have swapped pistons out that were over 100 grams heavier or lighter without touching the balance in some of his race engines back i the day with no noticeable vibration. I changed the pistons and cam in my 494" RB with the consultation and help of Dwayne Porter...

Time to invest in a modern pattern cam while you are in there. Did you just bolt the heads on out of the box, or did you have a quality shop check them?

By this I assume you had a notch ground across the cam journal oil holes. A lot of oil already goes up to the rocker shafts through the stock holes. Updating that old cam grind would have been a nice investment to take advantage of the increased head flow. One of the best "tricks" I found...

They are Indy EZ's and T&D rockers.

Something's not right, as you have eluded to. While the shaft mounted big block Mopar seems simple, it is actually very easy to bolt it all on and have some big problems that can get even bigger if left as is. I found that out the hard way. Mike at B3 Racing is at the leading edge of resolving...

I don't think any of them go into the water jacket on these heads. Use some anti-seize on the exhaust bolts. Brush it on the bolt threads evenly and wipe of the excess. It helps eliminate gauling of the aluminum. Use it on the spark plug threads too being careful not to get it on the end that...

It sure seems odd that they only gave you two rocker studs and two shims. I've only used all bolts on stock hold downs on stock motors or all studs on either my T & D shafts or my Hughes rockers. Those are very similar looking to head studs in this picture, but they are actually rocker hold down...

Any of the top piston manufacturers can make custom pistons for you. I just had a set made by Ross that came out exactly as ordered. I opted for the skirt coatings, but skipped the top of the piston coatings as mine is N/A and no No2. It might be something you are interested in looking at for...

Replace the pistons with some that will make quench, bolt on a set of massaged Edelbrock heads, match a new cam to the combo and replace the torque converter with on from a top shelf company. I'm good at spending other peoples money, but it sure would be a sweet little 383.

Got it. If you can get an idle vacuum reading, take that number and divide it by 2. That's the size power valve you can start with to see if it cleans up that off idle sluggishness.

It is so much easier to adjust carbs with a wideband, you are almost crazy not to use one to dial in your jetting etc.

I like it, 550 hp in an early A-body for the street. Buzzmc, I see that you live in Campbell. I'm over by Santana Row. Let me know if you'd like to go for a ride in a '68 convertible Barracuda with somewhere just south of 500hp via a stroked, Eddie-headed, 5.9 Magnum based motor so you can get a...

A engine pre-oiler would go a long way in extending engine life. The majority of engine wear occurs on start-up.

That intake is a single plane designed more for upper mid-range & top end. An Airgap would give you more torque down lower. first things first though. Dial in your initial & total timing as previously mentioned, along with your advance curve and vacuum advance. Be sure it's hooked to manifold...

Are you running a minimum of 100 octane race gas or E-85? With 13 to 1 you are not going to be able to run common pump gas, or you will melt or break something in a hurry due to detonation. If you can't figure out how to set the valve lash and basic timing, you are going to either have to...

Yes, these are the ones I've always run. They're great!

Are those all 500 cfm 2300'S? Are you going to mill the choke horns off the outboards. I have the old Direct Connection, side-hung mechanical carbs on my stroker motor. I think the clearance issue you're having is one of the reasons they used the side-hung bowls. I love mechanical secondary...