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Must have changed item number or something. Thanks

Just checked . Not in stock

I had a blanket on mine for several years. It was a universal one from Summit. Then I switched to TTI headers and they fit so close that they straps melted off the blanket. I'm looking at the CSR shield and moving the firewall back and opening up the tunnel. 69 Dart

Thanks for the help. Looks like I'll be getting a new shaft made.

If I remember right around 1". When shoved all the way in I have right at 2 1/4" of room. So take 1" off for travel looks like about 1 1/4" longer. Currently I don't have all the interior in the car. Only drivers seat other than it nothing.

I'm in the final stages of putting my 68 Dart GTS back together. I moved the springs back to center the rear axle in the wheel opening. How far does the front yoke need to stick into my 727?? How much slack do i need between the end of the drive shaft u joint and the rear end? How much is to...

I've used both Kenny (PTC) and Frank (Dynamic). I started out with Dynamic for street performance cars and Kenny for race converters. Kenny is recommended by my engine builder .

I just purchased one through PartsMix

I lower the motor down so it sits on the steering center link and use the long extensions and a swivel socket like fishy said. I also wrap the socket with a couple of rounds electrical tape to keep it from flopping around so much.

Go with the 65 pounds and I use blue loctite so they aren't such a bear to remove.

I think the one I got was leather. Around $40 to 50.

I run an 8" in my race car and a 9.5" dynamic converter in my street car. Both work well.

Can't stop laughing.

There is a small seal inside of it where the speedo cable fits inside. Check that or the neutral safety switch might be leaking. A tranny shop should have the seal.

3 qts of 85w-140 and if it is a suregrip add a bottle of suregrip additive. The only way I know to drain is to pull it. Then scoop out the stinking grease with your hands and rags.

Green bearing are sealed and do not need to packed. However the factory tapered bearings do need to be packed by hand with grease. There are no stupid questions.

New ones aren't that expensive. Won't be much left of the originals time you get them cut off

I just had a 489 built and ended up with around a $1000 in it. Next time I'll purchase one already done.

Try your local parts house. I know the NAPA store here has them.

I just switched my 68 dart to the large u joint and at the same time a fresh rebuilt 489 center section. The rear end yoke for the large u joint was $140.

I had the same problems with mine as Fishy did. He even sent me another one but I still had trouble. When your racing I know a person is all keyed up but I had to many shifts where second gear was missed and it went to 3rd.

Tap a chisel around it on the outside edge. Make a good mark in it with the chisel and beat on it until it starts moving.

My beater is a 98 Dodge Grand Caravan with a 3.3. Yesterday it started slipping or not engaging when it shifts. The fluid level is fine. Is the solenoid control valve causing this???? Thanks Jeff

Well I learned another thing dealing with a 742 case. The 742 case takes the 7216 seal and nothing else. The others will not work. $47.99 at Oreilly's

You will need to purchase a 1350 tranny yoke, 1350 rear end yoke and (2)1350 weld on ends for your new driveshaft you will have made.

Took out a 8515N and put in a 5126. Only difference was the depth of the metal shell. Thanks for the info Grimreaper.

Anyone have an idea of what is the correct pinion seal for a 741 case? I tried to find this weekend but couldn't. According to to Oreilly's website it takes a National 8515N. Nobody has it. I called my local parts guy this morning and he says the seal for a 489 case will work. Can anyone verify...

I'll bet you sleep good tonight knowing it works.

Check your neutal safety switch. That s what was leaking on mine.

I would just do a normal transmission service. My belief is your asking for trouble flushing it.