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Works best with a helper.

I take it you drill holes in the brass set screws to change the air bleeds sizes instead of purchasing them? The air bleed kit is pretty pricey.

I wouldn't think it will interchange. Go with a new one.

Try to find one on Ebay.

He took it over to a belt sander and cut them down.

My carb guy used to work at Quick Fuel and showed me that they had numerous carbs go out that weren't machined correctly. Mine would look like it was leaking around the base gasket all the time. Not the one under the carb but the one between the throttle plates and the base plate. I believe the...

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It's a hollow bolt like on a brake caliper.

Edd, I don't think they are a dropped base.

I always use a little pipe thread paste on them. It lubes them up so they don't gall and seals them also.

Most factory lines are 5/16's inch diameter. Think about it, that is all they used in the big block cars including the hemi. Factory should be adequate. If your replacing it go with 3/8's just for piece of mind.

Better listen to Rumble. That is what I've done on my dart.

I hooked up a vacuum gauge to full vacuum and at idle (900 rpm) shows about 8 to 9". The carb is dry inside at idle and I can see the idle slots above the closed throttle blades. The motor has 20 degrees initial timing in it. I opened the rear blades up 1/4 of a turn then readjusted the idle...

I checked the throttle plates and they are almost completely closed. It is a new carb from Quick fuel I purchased last year. Mechanical secondaries, 4 corner mixture screws and front and rear idle adjustments. My car doesn't seem to develope much vacumn so I installed a 2.5 power valve. Also...

Engine package is a 70 340 + .030, J heads, comp 284 cam 240/246 507/510, 750 Q series double pump. Engine is timed at 20 initial 34 total. Carb seems to want to run rich all the time. Dropped the jets from 74/84 to 70/80. The idle mixture screws are barely open. I changed the air bleeds from...

I use a little of ARP Thread Sealer on mine. You an get it from Summitt for $10

I purchased a new 3/8's fuel line from fine lines. After struggling to installed I came to the conclusion you have to pull the rear end. So I cut it and installed it in 2 pieces.

You can purchase what is called a hard tube adapter from Jeg's or Summitt.

I've dropped the jets several sizes. 4 corner idle set a 3/4 turn. cam is comp 242/246 507/510 only 6 to 8" vacumn 2.5 pv timing is 18 int 36 total

As the title says: How do I make my 750 quickfuel dp run and idle leaner. It is way to rich right now. Thanks

There should have been a strap with a clip on each end. It hooks over the line on the sender and the main line providing a ground path.

Might be better just to get a new seal and try it again. Make sure you put something on the tube for lubrication. Yes I know it's no fun especially when you have to do something twice.

It was running pig rich at idle (you know black smoke at the tail pipes) so I dropped the jets down from 74's to 72's. Now not near as rich. I can adjust the air mixture valves and it seems to help but it goes back to bad rich.

If you a hesitation when you quickly open up your carb do you need a larger or smaller squirter? 750 quick Fuel DP carb.

Check the neutral safety switch as they tend to leak. Mine was leaking between the plastic and the switch body.

Here is a seller on ebay with the part your seeking. http://www.ebay.com/itm/67-74-B-Body-Dart-Road-Runner-GTX-Fuel-Filler-Grommet-/380333188839?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item588d9fe6e7

I am thinking of selling it.

I run accross a carter thermoquad with the following numbers on the base plate. 6518S and 16373. I thought I knew what I had but now I don't. Please help me figure it out?

Call Quick Fuel or Holley and see what they have to say. Not a lot of us are running E85 yet. I've heard the fuel varies quite a bit yet in the gas to alcohol ratio so it is hard to tune for. Not saying I wouldn't but the closest is 30miles away from me.

Yep the float arm.