Dave, According to the brewers website I do have the correct shifter mounting pad for 67-76 a body cars, I know that I need new shift rods and such, I ended up picking up a correct shifter and other assorted parts for my swap last Friday. Now I just need to make sure I have the right brackets...
I have searched and seen a couple of other posts on the arms and wrote them down, I'm gonna call brewers tomorrow and see what they have to say, If they do I'll just order everything.
Thanks
So you swapped in factory levers? or are the original hurst ones different from the competition plus? the levers on mine look pretty thick vs. what ive seen in pictures for stock ones.
I have a Hurst Comp plus that I got with a 833 OD for my swap, but I cant find anything from the numbers that are on it. The levers a a little different from what I can see for a factory A body shifter. The Case says 285506 on, the outboard most lever has 2051 on it and the middle one has 2182...
Ok here I did pick it up, it is in fact a Hurst competition plus shifter and rocky no I don't have any of that stuff yet. I will need pedals, all the linkage, clutch fork, z bar and brackets, 130 tooth flywheel and clutch, but I will but those new
I will let you guys know what I pick up. Im supposed to be getting a performance clutch (cant remember what brand he said), the bellhousing and the iron OD 833 with the shifter setup ( the picture) for $495.
I'm sorry guys, that's all I got, I'm going to look at the whole setup tomorrow, just was wondering if anyone could tell me something about the shifter
Ok AJ/Forms. I have a new perspective on what I want to setup. I will probably swap in a different 833 after I get it together, right off the bat I will only be running a 318, which is in the car now, but my question in if I bought the overdrive bellhousing, with the 5.125" hole, can I use that...
Thanks again DaveBonds!!! I plan on running 10.5 wide in the rear on a 9" with ladder bars. I am pretty easy on everything I own, and am just building a nice street car. I now wish I had a different 833 but I think this one will work for now.
I guess my next question is, will any 833 shifter and linkages work? I was wanting to go with the hurst setup, just need to know I guess. I really appreciate your guys' help on this
Were all the 318's steel crank? The one that's in the car isn't the original, and I have no idea what its out of. How can I tell if its steel or cast without pulling it? and is there a difference in flywheels for a cast and steel crank, I guess that's what I'm really asking.
I'm also going to run my 318 for now until I get my stroker done that way I wont have to swap from external to internal balanced on the flywheel.
What kinda power will this overdrive unit withstand? Is it going to ok for a mid level stroker engine? I've lightening the car so I don't thing there...
Thanks DaveBonds!
I was just reading on allpar and it is infact an overdrive with the 1.00 for 3rd and .73 for 4th. I will look into what I can fond for a decent priced bell housing, but I did find the brewers has one for the 75-80 A/F Body smallblock which also works in the trucks also.
Yeah the guy said it was the OD unit, it is all aluminum (case, tailshaft, and side cover)
I think I might have found which one I can use at brewers performance.
why would the cast ones be better?
And aren't all the A833 overdrive?
So I picked up an A833, I'm wanting to convert my car to a manual. I've done a bunch of searching and studying and its all starting to blur together at this point.
The guy I bought it from said it was from a '76 A Body, that's all he really knew about it.
I ran the numbers and its coming up...