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Be careful mixing the rods with the lever arms. I played this game in '06 and found out real fast that some of the holes in shifter linkage arms are smaller than others. And they're hardened.

I looked it up and called him. He said $800. That's his price, not mine. Yours would be cnc'd, mine he did by hand. He requested that I not release his name because he does pro race team stuff and doesn't want a reputation for doing "retail stuff" lol. Still interested, pm me.

Yeah it wasn't Fidanza. It was some smaller company I'd never heard of. I have the invoice somewhere. I'll do some digging. I sent them a 130 tooth wheel and said, 'clone this', and truck wheel and said 'use this tone ring', and it took them almost a year to get around to it, but it is trick...

I don't remember, it's been seven years! That said, we can talk. Once you get the price, you may not want it. It wasn't cheap! It is light though. If I hadda guess.... Seven or eight pounds

I bought it in 2016. Maybe someday I'll actually install it.

Science Friction if the paperwork on the wheel from 2020 is correct. I almost bought one of those lightened steel wheels but I found a company that made mine in aluminum as a prototype. I had a magnum engine wheel with a removable ring, and they removed it and installed it on their aluminum...

I just had an aluminum flywheel custom made for mine, with the trigger notches in it. That youpuber doing all the lathe work and crap to make it work...where's the follow-up 'it lives' video? American powertrain used to offer steel flywheels with the notches. I don't think they offered them in...

I just found this old thread. What hydraulic throwout is that?

I'm really surprised that you're having the problem with the pedal return. I got nothing except to add a lighter return/overcenter spring than stock.

What clutch you got?

The thing a lot of people don't realize is that the pressure plate is a Chevy unit in most applications, too. I think they did on some of them? Some were definitely a Chrysler trans through and through. I saw one in a salvage yard (in the bed of a Ford no less) and about crapped my pants...

I only say that because I had a buddy show up with a 833 that had a wonky vin, turned out it was a mid '80's GM unit

You sure it's not a Chevy unit?

So you're telling me the lightweight flywheel and pressure plate I just put in my strictly street car is bad?

I'll never advocate cutting an input shaft, but if you insist, this is the way

I wish my synchros looked that good. The last pic looks a little rounded but not terrible. I think there should be enough thread on the shift rod to adjust it to where you need it if you flip the lever.

It's definitely either in the shifter or the interlock in the side cover. If you disconnected the lever and can't pull it out of 1st (you were moving the driveshaft when operating the lever, right?) pretty much only leaves the side cover, unless it's a catastrophic failure in the trans (unlikely)

Did the factory seam-seal everything under them like that? I have honestly never looked that close.

Couldn't tell you. I located my mine by the floor contours and the shifter in the boot, and then traced it with a magic marker. Moved in 3/4" and cut it out. The hump I used came from a '72 Demon and I had to chisel the floor to get it out. I know the factory hole wasn't very uniform because I...

Why? Crank not drilled or rough drilled for pilot bushing?

Imma disagree and agree at the same time. I'll admit, not everything from China is ****. I guarantee that what ever weapons they're building to attack us with will be top notch The problem with China is consistency. You never know if this flywheel is the one with a void in it.....

Pull the side cover off and lookie.

Is the pedal bracket from a stick shift car? They had a little brace on them that automatic cars don't have. If you use the clutch pedal with the auto bracket, the bracket will deflect and the spring will drag. I found that out when I converted mine.

I think you need to call Dr. Crankenstein.

Clutches are cheap, don't you be.

Get an overdrive, and some ~3.55:1 in any rear you pick.

I can not even comprehend the tooling costs associated with making that Passon 5-speed.....

Doesn't matter if I do or don't. Gear ratio spread does what it do.

All the shift speed in the world won't make up for sending your engine speed back to idle every time you shift. Steeper rear gear ratios won't fix it either. If you're just into street cred or want something different, do it to it, but have your excuses ready if it's time to race. Tell em your...

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I see! It's just like a jap bike transmission now! With a light flywheel that will shift as good as your shifter will let it! Can you get a ratchet shifter for the left side on the floor, and move the clutch to the driver door inner panel?