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Stock A body is 57 1/8" wide WMS to WMS, so you are 1/2" narrower with the 8.8 cut to 56 5/8". An accurate 8 3/4" rear axle width list

Rangers have a 2" offset of the pinion. I would run it as is if the Ranger rear is what you are after. Here is a good read if you are looking into an 8.8 swap, Ranger or Explorer: The Ford Explorer 8.8-Inch Axle Swap Good luck on whichever way you go.

Most rangers 8.8's us the 27 (EDIT: 28 Spline) spline smaller axles. I would check that before using it.

2 pin is for a non lock up torque converter transmission. If you have a factory plug, the dark blue wire goes to a keyed power source, and the orange/light green wire goes to a switched ground. I would be careful with the non lock up causing excessive heat at cruising speeds in the trans...

I was thinking of making a pinion snubber with the 8.8 stabilizer mounts

I would just hook the one side to power and the other to ground with the switch. Not sure if it makes a difference, but I have always read the switch on the ground side.

That is the one I speak of, plug looks like this: The round one with the three pins is just a neutral safety switch

The center wire goes to a 12v power source that turns on with a key. The front wire is a ground for the overdrive, only comes on when in 3rd gear. I have a toggle switch run from that wire to a ground and can flip it on when in third gear and it electronically goes into overdrive. The...

Kimmer is correct though. The splines will fit and are the same count, but I have read that they are not cut the same. One is more rounded splines while the other is squared off more.

You can get one out of any 88 and newer RWD Dodge with overdrive.

The one steel line comes back from the master and goes into a rubber line above the rear axle. That rubber line goes down to the axle and slits with a T or Y fitting and runs to each rear wheel.

Yes, and FX4 was limited slip, 31 spline 8.8

I agree, but the 28 splines are about the same of an upgrade as an 8 1/4" because the 28 splines are just the 7.5" axles put into an 8.8 ring gear (similar to the Ford Dana 50 that they came out with). It is personal preference, and I figure that for the price and work involved, I would want...

Yes, but is a weak 28 spline axle. Stick to the Explorer.

No RTV if you use that gasket. And that one is reusable also.

I have used RTV and I have used this one: Lube Locker Ford 8.8" Differential Gasket

https://www.airgas.com/product/Welding-Products/Filler-Metal/MIG-Wire-%28GMAW-%26-SAW%29/MIG-Wire---Nickel-Alloy/p/AH2S625XS30 I was just making conversation in regards to different ideas and concepts to make a pinion snupper.

The first rear I did was a high nickel content TIG weld. The second rear I did was preheated and welded with a MIG

I used MIG. I was told by some that said to use a high nickel content rod because it is cast iron. But I had a welder look at it and said that it was cast steel. He told me that I can use a regular MIG (just preheat cast, it will hold fine for what I am putting in front of it (400hp small...

MoparmanDan, I really like that design, it looks like it will function well. How does it line up under the car? What I see being a placement issue in MoparMatt2000's pic is the space constraints. There is not a lot of space between the Ujoint and the tunnel (and no tunnel support there)...

Came out nice. It is intimidating at first, but much more simple that one would think.

I will do updates, as I am starting a build thread as well. I am still waiting on parts, but here is my thread: 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Fastback (old school build with a new school feel)

I was going to, Cass makes a great product, but I could not bring myself to pay $175 for shackles/hangers. I bought some 5/8" offset shackles from Ruffstuff for $11 each ($44 total, plus $8 shipping), and going to alter the stock hangers to offset.

I am going to try the spacer first s well, but am using a 6" offset shackle (factory is 5") and I want to make sure that it does not hit the rear frame support

I cut off the 8.8 ones and will compare them to the 7 1/4 ones to see which are lower. I don't want the car to be too low. I am going to weld up the factory hole and move it back about 3/4-1" to center the tire in the wheel well. Uncentered rear tires drive me crazy.

Got the weld all ground down were it is graphed together. I have it where (I believe) will have the weld supported by the spring perch:

I had today off from work, so I marked out the 8.8, cut it, and welded it up. I tacked it all the way around, remeasuring 4 sides of the tube, after every 8-10 tacks. I then turned the heat up and put a nice thick bead an inch at a time, skipping around, and measuring 4 sides after ever 2-3...

You are correct. My Uncle owns a blasting company. He lets me use it once in a while, as long as I don't over-ask him. LOL

I just started doing another 8.8 swap for my 68 Barracuda. This one is a 3.73 geared trac-loc from a 2000 Ford Explorer. I just got done pulling the axles and sandblasting the housing. This is the rear in raw metal. Now time to cut it down and start getting it ready to go in the car.

Did you move the rear end back at all (from the stock location)? How close is the diff cover to the gas tank?