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So first off, your vent line is 5/16", not 1/4". Mopar didn't switch to 1/4" vent line until 1972. Assuming you have a stock tank and fuel setup your best bet is to leave it vented to atmosphere. Put a small filter at the end to keep crap from getting into it. It's so far from the fuel tank that...

Make sure the pickup tube reaches all the way to the bottom of the tank also. Chances are you'll have to bend it down a lot.

That's a common story with aftermarket sending units. Good decision to put the original back in -- unless you have a need for an aftermarket sending unit such as larger fuel lines or fuel return built into the sending unit, its best to stick with OEM. Several places can rebuild them if needed...

Even if the pickup tube location isn't the problem, are you aware of the drawbacks of aftermarket sending units vs original?

Aftermarket sending unit I assume? If so, while the tank was out, did you look through the filler neck hole and see if it was reaching all the way to the bottom of the tank?

AVS2 AVS and AVS2 have more adjustability than an AFB with the secondary air flap.

#1 choice for your setup is an aftermarket fuel tank if you have the $$$ Do not bother with the 4-vent 70-71 style, it's a waste of time and money For stock tank, if you go that route, go with 72+

The Spectra tank I bought came with a coating. I wasn't sure what it was and I removed it with iso alcohol. I didn't know how 'soaked' into the metal that coating was, or if i got it all off, so I left the tank bare as is. We'll see what happens.

So first you need to make absolutely sure it's coming from the filler neck grommet and not a small hole/crack somewhere in the filler neck. Assuming it is the seal this unfortunately is a common story. There's an abundance of bad filler neck grommets out there, some are hard like plastic and...

Is the return fitting in the sending unit itself? Or is it one on the top-middle of the tank? If it's the one at the top-middle of the tank it should be a 1/4" line fitting. Just get a step fitting/step hose barb to be on the safe side and you'll be good to go.

Is your sending unit new (aftermarket) or original?

I wouldn't go that far. I'm not saying it can't happen, but i've never seen it. If you somehow, someway, had a very full tank, and 'sloshed' the gas all the way up the filler neck, it should just drain back down. The vent line is on top of the filler neck to avoid any gas that might somehow get...

On your car the vent line should be going down under the car and ending there. Check for that when it's on the lift. If it doesn't end there and indeed does end in the filler tube you need to fix that.

Fixing 1970s Evaporation Control Systems

if it were me id fix the vent to charcoal canister line

72+ from the factory was a charcoal canister 70/71 was a fitting on the stock breather If you don't have a vent line you could just run a vented cap and use the '69 and earlier gas tank which doesn't have a vent. I believe that number is CR11C. You may have to go to a '72+ filler neck to find a...

You should get the 72+ tank, CR11E, and eliminate the poorly designed canister in the trunk. I just did this swap a few months ago. The 72+ tank has a single 1/4" vent line on the top-front of the tank. Simply splice this into the vent line that goes to your engine bay. Don't forget filler neck...

That would only happen if you had a REALLY bad problem. Most flexible fuel line, especially good quality kind like 30r14 barricade hose, will not collapse. In fact i've never seen it.

I ran into that I trimmed the hard line on the car back further and used a piece of rubber hose about 10" long.

If you're going to use an aftermarket sending unit and lock ring be sure to check for leaks before installing the tank into the car. Also you'll want to look through the filler neck hole after installing the sending unit to be sure the pickup tube reaches all the way to the bottom. Don't forget...

I stand corrected then, there is an option, it will just cost you an arm and a leg. The caps you can get at the autoparts store, both locking and non locking, are vented. All the ebay remake ones are vented. FWIW there's no functional problem having a vented cap on a '69 or earlier car.

Guys, I see this posted sometimes, and there's a big factor here: OEM vs remakes/aftermarket on gas caps. Mopar caps from '70+ were partial-pressure caps, if you read the Allpar article it explains it better. The thing is those were only used on OEM caps. If you buy a remade cap/aftermarket cap...

You could get the tank lined professionally but even that can come with problems. Keep it full and use fuel stabilizer in the fuel. Every year or so make a point to run down the gas low over the course of a few days and fill it up again with a fresh tank. If you just can't drive it that much...

I'd highly recommend you get your OEM sending unit refurbished. The aftermarket ones have several problems.

If the float is full of gas just replace it with this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOM17I/?tag=joeychgo-20

Assuming you have the vent line correctly hooked up at the filler tube on your 70 Duster you can just plug the vent fitting on your CR11E tank. Or better yet use it as a fuel return port in the future!

Can you give us a little more info? Do you have the filler neck? Do you just need a gas tank? Are you wanting to keep it factory correct?

If you put an aftermarket sending unit in be sure the pickup tube reaches all the way to the bottom of the tank

You might want to search for "aftermarket sending unit" on this forum and do some reading. The short version is all aftermarket sending units are linear. Your gauge won't read correctly. In order for it to work correctly you'll need to add something like the "Meter Match" device (search for that...

Why did you order a sending unit? Is the existing one in your tank in rough shape? Is it the OEM one?