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Corporate greed.... Squeeze as much profit out of it and make it as cheaply as possible... :mob: Been going on for decades and keeps getting worse... :mad: The days of quality parts manufacturers is long gone... :(

If I remember correctly, you bottomed out the plunger, then backed off to the recommended clearance... That will make sure that there is not too much 'slop' in them....

I liked them in my 340 S with the 484/284 purple shaft cam.... With standard lifters it idled very choppy at 1100 RPM, after installing a set of Rhoades lifters I had it idling at 800 RPM much smoother... The guy taking these pictures of it didn't wait long enough into the burnout, he...

I liked the Vmax also... The way you set them up by bottoming the plunger and then setting the lash seems like it will give more accurate lift than the standard Rhoades...

I like Rhoades lifters and have run them for decades... You either like them or not.. I like them...

Here's another good link for reading vacuum gauges: http://www.earlycuda.org/tech/vacuum2.htm

If you watched where you were walking, then you wouldn't stumble on the secondaries when you step over them....

383's and 426's are the same bore of 4.25", there should be some options out there with that common size of bore...

Good point, but with that much lift and duration in that cam, I don't think that it's possible to 'degree' enough clearance for the valves... He needs pistons with deep valve relief pockets...

Your best option is to have valve reliefs/eyebrows cut into the pistons for valve clearance... But that cam has huge lift at .643"/.660" and will require deep cuts... You should check the thickness of the piston before machining to make sure that you will not break through the tops when...

I like to use this carb base gasket: Edelbrock Heat Insulator Gasket First get the timing dialed in... Start around 10° - 15° advance and see how it runs... then dial in the carb next... That cam should idle at 700 - 800 RPM ... Something is not right... Also check to make sure...

I would look close at the carb for issues.... It's probably a little gummed up from sitting...

Also make sure to get a good 12 volt source for the electric choke... Do not get power from coil or ballast out for choke...

No, that cam is not too big... Be sure to check piston to valve clearance and also make sure that your head can take over .500 lift - make sure your head guy checks that and gives some extra clearance like .600" lift before the valve will bottom out or coil bind.... You don't want a...

Performance Trends has good software... My friend's son used it to design a cam for his 340 Duster and then another program to predict the ET and came within one tenth of what the software predicted....

I think that fix uses the 340 six pack coil mounting bracket..

we replaced a performer with an LD4B on a stock 318 and it ran waaaayy better.... Go with the LD4B...

You're going to drag this up again??? Let it go... If you don't have any input on the thread subject, keep moving along... Have a little respect for the original poster...

Check your rubber hose in the fuel system. Check the hose coming out of the sending unit that connects to the main steel line and see if it is bent and may be kinked. I've seen that restrict fuel flow. Make sure that all hoses are straight as possible and not kinking where it bends...

Au contrare...

Has dual exhaust been added. 2 1/4' - 2 1/2" with an H-pope or x-pipe will help it greatly.

Just don't get big headed over this...

They started putting hydraulic cam/lifters in 273's in 68 and 69...

Pistons for a 383 shouldn't be that hard to find as it's 4 1/4" bore.... But the 360 has more stroke and less weight. The 66 383 heads did now flow as well as the 68 and later ones...

Thanks Mitch...

Pretty bold statement to make when you don't know anything about us. Him and I can school you in Mopar, we've been doing it much longer than you, and combined, we have more experience than you most likely will live... Do you have any tech "articles" in the How-to section yet...

A legend in his own mind.... Junction: There's no need to insult Rusty. Everybody has an opinion, state yours and move on... Arguing is not helping the original poster. I've met rusty and seen his posts, he knows SOMETHING... Most of his recommendations are accurate...