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Agreed. Not a formatting problem, though. Just incorrect information. The person who wrote that probably heard of someone that had a 292/.508” cam in a 340 and took it as the gospel that the factory put it in.

I’m assuming your numbers mean big end weight & small end weight. If so, the 2 gram difference between 166 and 164 is ok, but 429 and 415 is too big of a difference.

Oh, cool. That actually happened. I read something about that on here that they might be doing that. Didn't know they actually went through with it.

Punctuation and decimal points matter! :thumbsup:

Aluminum heads are more resistant to detonation than iron and therefore they can typically be run at higher compression than iron. I don’t know how good the gas is where the OP is, but I’ll bet the increased compression is not the issue.

Can you be more specific?

My buddy is doing a budget 360 build for his Dart. He had great success with small Lunati Voodoo cam in a 383 he had, so I told him to get another Voodoo cam. Lunati gladly took his money, then wouldn’t answer the phone when he called for updates on his order. The machine shop that did the work...

Yes, both are owned by The Edelbrock Group. Home - Edelbrock Group

Perfect! Just checking. Trying to cover all the bases.

Good point on the centerline. Was this cam degreed or just installed by lining up the dots on the timing set?

The first video looks like lean misfire to me since it comes and goes. Doesn't look like an engine balance problem. BTW, the way to tell between a 273/318 forged crank and a 340 is that the 340 has a hole drilled lengthwise into the front and rear crank throws. It appears that the crank has one...

Find a new machinist. Any machinist who blindly puts a crank in the balancing machine and balances it without giving it a quick once-over first should find a different line of work. Don't blame yourself for not catching it. Blame your machinist!

I used to like Cloyes back when the chains were made by Renold. The last one I pulled out of the box (a few years ago) said Olon on the chain, which is a cheaper chain. It had slop right from day one and I told the guy not to run it, but it was just a cruiser, so he ran it anyway. I don't know...

I assume that this thread means you decided to keep the car?

Out of round by .001 to .0015? I'd line hone it.

Nope. Torque specs are generally for clean, lightly oiled bolts. Use a tiny bit of 30 weight oil on threads and under the bolt head.

This is what I was trying to say, but work has my brain kinda fried lately. You pretty much can't go wrong with this method.

Of course. You mic the crank, then set the dial bore gauge with that mic, then measure your bearings. :thumbsup:

Dial bore gauge is best. Set it to the size of the crank, then measure the torqued bearings to get your clearances.

Permatex. Red loctite is not the right thing to use on a core plug. No such thing as a freeze plug, btw.

Not really necessary on a stock engine, but if you really want to do it, one 1/16" right in the center of the top of the rod should do it. Don't put any holes in the bottom of the small end!!

The oil holes are machined, not cast into the block. Regarding the OP's issue, I wouldn't sweat that one. It's not that bad. When I was a machinist, if they were way off, I would run a long drill down the oil galley and enlarge the oil hole in the bearing, then deburr the hole and re-wash the...

The Google search link that Trailbeast posted shows a bunch of results of discussions about them. The third result has someone talking about how the disintegrated after a week.

$160 hydraulic roller lifters? Can you say "grenade"?

Yes, strokers don't "add very little power". They add a lot. Mine dyno'ed 519 hp @ 5800, 506 lb/ft @ 4100. That's with a cam that idles smooth at 900 rpm.

I didn't build mine and it's not a Hughes engine, but the 427 stroker in the Valiant has close to 1000 miles on it. So far, so good. It has a 4 1/8" stroke.

I reconditioned hundreds of rods in my 10 years as a machinist. I have personally honed the big ends of many rods where the bearing surface had copper all over it. I've pressed factory pistons off of rods and found the honed pin bores with copper in them. It's done for size, trust me.

Not true. It's for size. Why would only one end of one rod in an engine be plated copper for corrosion resistance? Makes no sense.

This is correct. If it the big end was too big, they would just dip 'em real quick and re-hone them.

Little bit of 30 wt on the body of the lifter and moly lube on the bottom if it's a flat tappet, then prime it before you start it. No soaking necessary. Should be good to go.