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Is it leaking? If it ain't broke. I have a few pre-65 rears, nothing wrong with them. Definitely needed a hub puller to swap to 65 drums, now the drum and hub are separate and can pull the drums off same as 65 and up. I pulled the axles from one by removing the backing plates, putting the hub...

Just a thought, are the gearshift levers worn? If the squared off part of the lever is no longer square, the shift arm will turn on the lever before moving the fork. My trans would run through the gears fine when the engine was not running, but not shift into 3rd. Basically, it was still in...

All years Sure Grip differential, as well as 1964 and up open differentials, thrust block was the same size. 1963 and earlier open differential thrust block was a different size. Whether it was thicker up to 1963 for open, or the opposite, I'm finding conflicting info. I get what a thrust...

Yeah, and reverse is the same exact ratio, can just let the clutch out and it's like an automatic that drives itself extremely slow. Nice for backing into the driveway though. Waiting to hear back on a few more questions on the parts truck. Sometimes it seems people list stuff and fall off the...

If I could, I think I'd put one in my truck, I don't see why it couldn't pull a car trailer with it. But what do I know. What I think I know is the NP435 will pull anything, but I don't need this truck to pull ye 'ol barn down on the back 40.

Is that 727 from a 4WD married transfer case? I think I'm learnin' stuff here.

No disrespect. My point was skilled individuals seem to be more scarce lately, and possibly no or few to take their place. Case in point, a retired older gentleman created the seat covers for my 62 as they were not available anywhere. The good news is I also had to make many of the interior...

Any of those have that OD deal with the dash button? That one was news to me during this thread.

I don't even use 1st, start in 2nd. It is a ridiculous crawl gear, same as reverse. 3k @ 80 was a fluke in my mind, I don't need to do 80mph in this thing. If a Mopar .69 OD is the same as the auto OD available that same year-ish, and is a direct bolt in, I'm game. Kiss principle saves $.

Not jumping out. Not grinding, but doesn't seem to be very smooth going into 3rd. Not sure if it's too slow to shift, it's no A833, can't quickly run it through the gears, and there doesn't seem to be much of a difference between them. Having zero experience with this trans doesn't help, but...

Based on the lack of a floor, I'm thinking the bottoms of the doors may have some rust.

Don't know yet. I would have to asap. And/or junk it asap. No room for another vehicle. I think $1,200 is way too much, and also just right.

Found this nearby, 88 W250 for $1,200.

Freezing cold NY.

Guessing that is married. A late 80’s /early 90’s auto trans with OD from a 4 wheel drive sounds good to me.

:)

I take it could be from a bb or sb? Also thinking I could just use the existing brake pedal, and an aftermarket floor shifter. Still open to a rebuilt or new manual. I've searched the truck forums, most threads are auto to newer manual, full of conflicting info or just end with no resolution.

1984 The cab/front clip has the VIN on the dash, door jamb, under bottom of hood, and it's from a rust free 2WD automatic 1/2 ton, according to the VIN, and iirc the 5th digit decodes to 4-5k lbs. Cab has the 'small' trans tunnel, which would be for an auto. The bed is from another truck, as...

Do you have any of the auto parts for sale? Your NP435?

Long story short, looking for an extended cab, short bed, automatic, non-lifted truck. So, I bought the complete opposite, but, the bigger deal, it is rust/rot free. Rebuilt/bored 318, dana axles, all new blah blah blah. Only issue, NP435 trans is a little noisy in 2nd, a lot in 3rd, and quiet...

I replaced my 64 Sure-Grip with 65 drums and new studs. What's the downfall once the drums come off and on with ease?

When I got my car the rear and springs were painted white!

Mine has faded lettering on it, not sure what it is exactly. You could paint, 'install this driveshaft' on it for extra points.

How do you determine if the current pin is ok to use? I've already determined I don't have a press, my boot is shot, and there are no other obvious issues even if I drive it now. I imagine the rollers and caps would fail before the pin, but wadda I know.

U-joints fail, I've never heard of or saw a b&t that failed. Most, the boot cracks, that's all, remove it, clean up the internals, new grease and boot. I wouldn't even attempt to r&r the pin. I bought a boot that is for something else entirely, it is an exact match except it is a little long...

We agreed to return/refund to keep it simple. It cost me a little time and money, but for those counting, here's a case of a sale that didn't go south, and I learned a thing or two. Thank you fabo.

Seller said he'll do whatever, if I want to put it in and run it to check it out that's fine. If there is a problem he'll refund me. That was regarding the chips. No ill feelings, stuff happens, but between shipping and swapping it in then out it's just more money and time. And I don't have...

More. Why does every other center pin drop? Should there be that much back and forth play? (End of video)

I went out again and turned it, heard a different sound at a certain point but not related to the chip. Spun it faster with a socket, now I'm paranoid. Does anyone else hear that muffled clunking right at the bottom of the swing of the socket? Is that normal?

It is a new ring and pinion, so would it be affected by the installation of new bearings? 3.91, 383 4 speed, roughly 450hp, daily driver, upgraded from the 3.23s, and went with a bigger tire. Not really into burn outs anymore, but was thinking a few with the 3.91s would be fun.