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Ditto yes.

I ran a 383 with that thumper cam, Performer RPM, and an 850 Holley dp, and it would snap your neck at go and pull like a sob. It didn't sound any different to me. I wouldn't be against swapping it out for that Summit cam, but with all the new cam/lifter horror stories out there lately, don't...

I believe I now have a resolution to both issues: idle/stalling and vibration. Of course, I'm hesitant in stating everything has been resolved. Thank you everyone for reading my lengthy bs and stupidity and providing suggestions and info. A fbbo member also provided a specific part in the...

Just tried it, wasn't stalling, large open side street, foot on brake, put in gear, foot to floor, rpms go to just above 2k and car starts to move. Attempt #2, same result. Not able to pull pan now. Immediately after, car now has severe clunking sound only when driving and turning right - not...

Time to beat this dead horse some more. I have started it to move it around over the winter, on a trickle charger, always fires right up and idles fine, for a while. Pulled it out today, same as above. After a little bit kick the choke off, idles fine, a little more time, starts to idle down...

Yes, I ran it at least twice with the belts off. I went as far as running it with only one belt on, then the other. I don't know why or what I thought I would find. I'm thinking the consensus is the issue is not within the engine itself. I am unable to get a new trans mount, it's just not...

I found information, mostly on fabo, that supports the post from Charrlie_S. My understanding is: 1962 the crank changed from an extended 8 bolt crank, that used a cast iron trans, to the modern 6 bolt with an aluminum trans. 1962-66 318 polys came with the same crankshaft register as the...

Next: unbolting the flex plate from the converter to see if I can wiggle the converter around off of center. I would imagine it would destroy the converter seal, eventually, but no leaks yet. I'll also see what info I can locate on when the snout size changed, not that my converter has never...

Hard parts, forgot. Engine, used water pump on it, alternator new, uses existing power steering pump, converter/trans, driveshaft, axle. New belts, dizzy. Brakes new, front bearings. Left the balancer and flexplate on new engine. Disconnected all belts/accessories, no change.

Meaning the metal and rubber slipping out of wack? It doesn't appear to have slipped, and from what I know sometimes it's difficult to see. I can certainly check again. Isn't the poly internally balanced? But even so, a slipped balancer would be an issue I take it. Would a 4 speed flywheel off...

Food and beer is a small price to pay for sanity. I'm comparing it to how it ran from the first time I ran it on July 20th to Oct 5th when it first started vibrating. I was all over this car after July 20th, brakes soup to nuts, upholstering the interior myself, tearing everything apart...

66 318 poly bolted to my 64 727. The engine/trans fit together without issue. Just to clarify, the ring gear and converter are one piece, which was new to me at the time but probably the norm. I'm not sure what you mean by the other way around: If you have an early converter on a later engine...

I used the torque converter on the trans that was in the car. The trans works extremely well, the kickdown o-ring was hard and leaked every so often so I replaced. It's just a rubber ring. Changed fluid, no other leaks. What are you thinking? Engine mounts are new, have checked the mounts...

Vibration: At idle motionless it's the same as at idle in drive. Driving at speed it's difficult to tell, I would say it's the same. It is the same with transmission in park as in neutral. It is less noticeable when driving. Slowly increasing revs doesn't smooth it out. I held my hand on the...

If you mean changing an old plug to a new plug, then running engine, then changing another, etc, no I haven't. I have changed the plugs multiple times during this, just recently on Tuesday. I just tinkered with it a little more, nothing major, very small adjustments to timing and idle. Ran...

I rebuilt it before the battery and alternator died, degreased it, took it all apart, carb cleaner, compressed air. It ran well before it was rebuilt, and better after. The vibration started after the battery died, after I started it with a new battery in it.

Set #1 tdc compression, removed valve cover to make sure, set distributor/rotor to #1, cleaned up cap and rotor, checked/cleaned up coil wires, checked all plug wires are clicked on all the way. Started, let warm up, advanced timing to 10dg btdc, set idle to about 700 rpm, checked timing reset...

Thank you, I was thinking it could be the brand new coil but wasn't sure how to check. Although unfortunately it could be any of the new parts, everything is new. Next on the list: Check timing and coil.

After the 30 min I also drove it around to see if it would clear up. I also pinched the fuel line before the carb to run it dry, thinking maybe something was stuck in the needle/seat because it smelled bad. Those plugs are literally brand new white on one side, black on the other. Never seen...

Gap new plugs to .035. Installed tach. Set balancer mark to 10dg btdc. Set rotor to #1 cylinder. Reset idle mix screws to 2 1/2 out. Realized vacuum advance was connected to manifold vacuum on carb, moved to ported. Started, choke came on and let it warm up. Timing light showed mark on balancer...

Swapped the carb base gasket with the one on the top. PCV port is in the bottom center hole of the gasket on the bottom. PCV now works fine off the carb. Started fine, idles fine, still slight constant vibration. Checked oil, looked good. Pulled all plugs, all black. I knew it was a little...

It has a Carter. I'll check the gaskets today. It did run without issue after the rebuild for some time. I'm open to check anything, and I certainly agree this needs to be checked again. The gaskets may all be the same, I don't recall, I just remember there were a few in the kit. I kept the...

I started with the fbbo link below, which had the same hot specs as the manual, .010 intake, .018 exhaust. The second post links to The 318 Poly List and the details on the cold method. It states to take off .002 from hot specs for cold, but it's actually add .002, correct on fbbo. I did all...

Ordered a tach and a comp tester. Had some time today located some great valve adjustment info on fbbo and an online manual. I adjusted the valves, all were correct or needed a minimal adjustment. One exhaust valve, #7, had zero lash. Checked pcv, in working order. Checked oil drains on...

Got it on the tach, I definitely need one to see the actual rpms. Spark plugs I'll look at again, and check my notes, I believe I changed recently. Adjusting valves, I read a manual on adjusting poly valves, and I'll have to double check, but I recall it states to do it while warm and running...

I'll do a compression test asap, and check the pushrods while running. I never adjusted the valves. I appreciate all of the advice. I noticed when I do online searches when trying to figure things out there's always multiple links to fabo. Even non car related stuff. I'm trying to educate...

Have had zero time to spend on this. Last thing I did was ground each cylinder and it idled the same for all, so I ordered new plug wires. I needed to move it today, so I had to put the new plug wires on it. Checked oil, looked clean. Changed wires. Fired right up first try, it's been cold too...

Drained some oil into a glass jar, don't see water. Started grounding each cylinder and there was no change. Recalled in my first post when I mentioned I had left a wire off in error, plugged it back in, no change. Went to change cap for the heck of it, sent wrong replacement cap, cleaned up one...

There probably isn't a rule book for water in oil but no oil in water, but I was thinking start by pulling the intake and hoping it's the guilty party. Then a compression test/leak down which would hopefully indicate if I need to go further.

Drove home, ran worse, checked oil, definitely water in oil, dipstick covered in milk, wiped, put in again, straight up water on it, breather full of milk. Radiator still free of any oil, clear and clean. Had to go back out, couldn't go any farther.