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My car always runs better with a Demon. I run the 3 hole blocks at .024/.025/.026 with a .031 MAB for a predictable flat fuel curve. The downleg step boosters atomize the fuel better IMO.

I don't run a choke in FL and have no problems on my driver. I'm sure you'll be ok in LA.

download the 73 FSM carb is covered very well

Hygrade 657C was the kit I used on my large TQ 340. I left all the jetting for a 440 Truck motor as is and it works great on my 340 street car.

yes

use the existing circuit to control a heavier B+ relay circuit.

made in USA High-Performance Catalog - TI Automotive

If your not building an all out race 318 motor run a 650 or 750, lie at the car show that its an 850 or 950.

I dialed my car to run 12.5 AFR with a dual plane air gap with all plugs burning even and worked backwards to dial in an optimized cruise to drive 50 miles make minor changes and race. I favor my car to run better at the track than cruise. I ran a vacuum gauge to manifold and ported vacuum to...

I tuned my Q series QFT 750dp with a 9.5 4 window by simply stretching the existing spring. It opens around 12". I run a 69 PJ with .070 PVCR to keep the highway cruise at 14.5 and WOT at 12.5 with a 86 SJ. With a 9.5 PV the car had a slight stumble rolling the throttle with primaries only. I...

Funny, I was having a cup while reading. Have good day.

Outer are idle circuit, inner are the main circuit.

That $ucks. 727 or 904?

The other day I put on the vacuum gauge, and it only read 5 lbs of vacuum at idle in park. I thought that was odd, so I started adjusting the 4 corner Idle screws until I ended up at around 10 or 11 lbs of vacuum which is more normal for this cam. after revving the engine a few times, I noticed...

If the fuel system is good the fuel could be perculating in the fuel pump when the motor is hot. A fuel filter with the return line filter will cure this. Today's gas vaporizes at a much lower temperature than the good old days.

You can do it with wire. The primary metering block is really the one you want to concentrate on since this is the circuit you are cruising on. If this is a newer carb the IFR is most likely in the upper position which is not as stable for flow. Here's a good read that explains how to tune: Carb...

To clean up the cruise and off idle you need to get the idle circuit correct. IMO the IFRs are to big and you need to go down .001 at a time. If I were you I would use a .032 IFR in the bottom position and a .067 IAB as a starting point. Reset the idle mixture screws after motor is at operating...

Remove the spring on a 10.5 and slightly stretch it.

less typing and more wrenching will fix this. Install the carb heat insulator, plumb the return line and bypass reg and you will end this problem. I use a $40 holley regulator and it works great. Rock steady 6.5 psi set at the factory. After adding a return system all my hot start issues ended...

You can use the original coil pwr wire to control a relay with battery pwr.

I run a summit brand holley style black pump with a holley return regulator set at 6.5 psi on my street strip 340 car. It has worked great at the track and no more vapor lock issues with today's pump gas.

My 340 is similar to yours except 10:1 and cam is [email protected] I run 93 pump gas. get a qft750 dp with 4 corner idle. In FL you don't need a choke. I'm in FL and run one with this setup: PJ 72 SJ 84 MAB .029 Emulsion stack 4 hole metering block .028/plug/.028/plug If using 3 hole block...

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post a picture of what is currently on the carb, they probably have a plug in them. The old holley blocks will work but you need to check the IFRs so you know what you are putting in.

You are cruising on the idle circuit with dual carbs and your gearing. To determine when the primaries come in you can go to smaller jets and see when the car falls on it's face. PVs are the way to go on a street car.

Just because the starter kicked back at 30 doesn't mean it will at 27. You can adjust the vacuum advance after you get the car to run good without it. Today's pump gas fuel needs more initial timing and your aluminum heads are dumping heat.

Lot's of different advice but here's what I would do if tuning. A lot of folks will disagree but I know this works at sea level on my motor and your setup is very close to mine. Get the timing curve setup: - Pull the distributor and install 1 silver, 1 blue spring. Set total mechanical to 6*. A...

What distributor and ignition box are you using? Does the distributor have vacuum advance? Are you using a PCV valve? What fuel pump are you using? Does it have a return line? Are you using a carb spacer? If yes what type? Where are the float levels set at?

post what the carb setup is now. what are the emulsion hole sizes in the metering blocks? What camshaft, intake manifold and timing are you running?

Your metering blocks are probably 3 hole .028, plug the bottom hole on each side on both metering blocks. Leave the 67 IAB in and change the MAB to .031. The overdrive is going to need the AFR a little fat on the upper end of the idle circuit and the 67 IAB will do the trick. Put a 35 nozzle up...