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I run a wagner adj and a $25 amazon catch can. Zero oil suck in the carb. It takes a little while for the old TRW forged slugs I run to expand and this setup works for me.

at 2250 your at the top of the idle/trans circuit - smaller IAB to fatten Basicly extend the idle circuit or start the main earlier. Both require smaller air bleeds.

750 demon flows around 830. The venturi is around .1 larger than a QF or Holley 750. If your racing the 500 an 850 demon or larger would be the better choice. If a streeter the 750 demon will work with instant throttle response.

OP send me an email address and I'll send you an old 3310 tuning article.

I have the opposite issue, et hp calc is always higher than mph hp using Wallace Racing HP calculator. I think the aero of my brick has something to do with it.

You need to adjust/center the secondary butterflies so they don't hang up when closing. Idle mixture screws do not have to be the same. Every dual plane engine I've owned needed split jetting to even the burn.

You need to read, not make assumptions, and stop calling me a liar. I will post whatever I want if I think it will help someone.

Bingo! Pistons are .018 above deck. 10:1, 7.81 DCR car hauls the mail.

Here's a calculator with altitude input. Boost Compression Ratio Calculator

I never stated my DCR, simply wrote what my last compression check was. A compression gauge is for checking engine health. My gauge is not calibrated and the only use is are all the cylinders even. Every motor I've built is measured by me. This motor is 7.81 dynamic. 4.08 bore flat top .018...

L2316F40 deburred and polished top 66 cc chamber deburred 25 initial 35 total mechanical run a good cooling system and proper AFR

Read this article. You can download the calculator. I run a 340 10:1 J head at sea level on 93 with 282S, 185 crank psi You need the extra compression at higher elevation to make good power.

Agree. Also make sure the Idle air bleeds are clean!

If you are running in the 2500 rpm and lower range you are using the idle circuit. Make sure the float levels are stable and in the middle of the sight glass, set idle mixture to 13.0 engine hot in neutral. Richer idle fuel mixture is a compromise for driving the car on a warm afternoon and...

If you haven't already, you might want to disconnect the fuel line and do a flow check into a good size container.

I assume your heads are low mileage. Why not port what you have. I have a 300 HP crate and a mild port and bowl cleanup made a big difference.

did you degree the cam? what is your rear gear? are you running a stock converter, 4 speed?

Look on Craigs List. Mustangs Ford run the same bolt pattern and you may find a slightly used pair mounted on steel rims.

Drive around the water. Lower air pressure to 16 psi to start. Feather the throttle. BFGs suck. MT ET Street drag radial 26 Diameter will hook you up. At my track you need long studs and driveshaft safety loop to get thru tech with sticky tires.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=322621 Above link is MRL's 340 stroker built for pump gas and street driven. This motor with a carb will probably hit your #s. I would by his ported Al heads over the Edelbrock. To get the #s you want from an xjou head would take a max effort...

http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/Cam-Shield_Oil_Treatment.html I use Camsheild additive and it is cheap and works.