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I remember last time I bought a set of studs they weren't quite large enough. I'm not near my calipers or an axle to measure but want to order ASAP. I was thinking .685 for some reason... Anyone have a good answer? It is a 69 B body axle.

9/16 deep impact socket usually fits.....

Energy suspension makes urethane boots in red and black that last!

The solution it to make a preload device that fits under the torsion bar snap ring to keep the torsion bars and control arm constantly forward.

TRW from a 66 Satellite with a Poly probably.... see this? SOLD - TRW/Federal/Thompson Power Steering Pump

60s Federal or TRW. Need to see the back to know for sure. With the big return line it looks like some kind of truck unit. http://ep.yimg.com/ay/chucker54/mancini-racing-big-block-hemi-federal-power-steering-pump-bracket-12.gif

This is a 75 Duster. I used the linkage and box from a 74 on my 68 which has the 71 K frame so yes you can swap it around.

Pretty sure it is 69 and up that drop down from the top just like the inner tie rod ends.....

The odd ball style did not have the through bolt. I have 74 linkage on my 68 Dart but then I used a 71 K frame. Here they are side by side, as you can see the idler arm brackets are the same. Early steering boxes and idler arms are like the ones you see here where it connects upward through the...

There is enough travel in the steering shaft to just shove it in (or pull it out) to make it fit either box.... Done it a few times.... My 75 Duster was a PS car.

Loosen the front nuts before taking them loose from the control arm. You really need an impact for these. Be sure and remove the roll pins or cotter pins from the front of the rods. The cup of the washers is supposed to face outward to allow for a free arc of travel. Clean the threads with a...

To clarify about front spring arch. The relationship I was referring to and thought you were too is the depth and in out travel of the yoke in the transmission. Since SS springs have very little wrap in front, the distance from rear axle to transmission changes very little so the yoke moves in...

The answer is yes they will move back. Several guys have had the cars up with the shocks off and had the shackles lock over center forward of the mount. You have to make an effort lowering the car to make sure the springs don't do this. Situation normal. The front spring arch is what affects...

I spread the U on this one to match the factory bolt locations and then made the front support from angle iron to bolt to the frame rails.

You need to make sure your indexing is correct. The position showed looks to be a flat off. The adjuster arm should have some down angle to it unloaded. Unload the other side and compare the angles. The nut you loosened is the LCA stub shaft nut which will hold some preload on the LCA if your...

Hemi Denny has a setup that is very popular here!

If by some chance you have the larger joints the Spicer Part # 5-1309X should be it.

If it is the smaller joints the 317 is a good choice as it has a zerk on the cap and is easy to grease. It crosses over to several numbers but Precision and Master Pro use that number.

The way to do it would be to fabricate a bracket that attached to the front bearing retainer. This would also require special length bolts and shims.

I'm still betting on lower control arm sleeves broken loose. My old 75 Dart had a similar issue and started eating tires on long trips. Dive into a turn and all hell broke loose! Bushings looked fine but once you back the control arm out away from the K frame you can see the problem.

Lower control arm shaft sleeves may be broken loose from the K member..... (HAPPENS ALOT)

The sector shaft seal crosses over to National 50151S $8.99 at O'reilly's or $1.97 at Summit then add $6 freight unless you already have an order...

I thought about drilling and tapping the fill plug for a zerk but would then need to loosen something to keep from pumping the seals out...

In 1935 Ford entered 10 V-8 powered Miller built FWD cars at Indy. All dropped out within 145 laps because..... The steering boxes were too close to the exhaust and failed!

If you have good torch skills you can carefully blow the head off the bolts to remove the cams and get to the shank of the bolts without hurting the slots and minimal rubber fire.

PB Blaster and an air hammer...

Does this look like what you need? $23.97 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/grt-4268?seid=srese1&gclid=CPXnpb2588wCFQyEaQodarAI1A

It really depends on your exhaust routing. A recent post had the fast ratio pitman arm hitting the lead pipe.

What brand of torsion bars?

Glad to hear it was an improvement over stock. I will definitely consider this.