Search results for query: *

Exhaust with an X or H....

When you put it back together from the cam gear coming loose did you have you move the distributor for it to run?

If your air filter has ever gotten wet and it is a paper filter the fibers will swell and restrict flow..... prost!

Yes that is fine or any manifold vacuum source on the carb just not ported vacuum.

After reading post #24 again you may be on to it. Cam timing sure could be off if nothing else changed.

As Columbo would say... One more thing.... Have you tried reversing polarity on the distributor?

Or just throw in a 6.5 valve and see if the problem moves up the scale or goes away. If none of that works you may have to get out a degree wheel and spec card and see where that cam is at.....

Need to run it with a vacuum gauge, you may be pulling enough at WOT to close your power valve and the related miss fire can fool the wideband.

Well hell! Runs the same with and without the air filter?

0 DEGREES TDC mark on the distributor where #1 terminal is and #6. Remove the cap and see how the rotor corresponds to which ever mark it is pointing to. If it is not dead on or just a hair after you may have an issue. If it is closer to the next terminal in the firing order you may be able to...

If all that check out we are back to rotor indexing in the cap. Quick check would be to swap distributors.....

Air cleaner / filter restriction will cause AFR to go rich and engine to crap out......

What air cleaner and filter and how much hood clearance? My sixpack tried to suck the hood down till I scooped it.....

I bet you are going lean for one reason or another, either jetting or pump.... Maybe even sucking metering rods down or power valve closed with that much CID.

Good thought have you tried it without the pill?

The other possibility is rotor indexing in the cap is marginal and stops jumping spark with the retarded timing. Maybe even a bad or marginal ignition coil.

Fuel supply issue I would bet. Install an external gauge and see what happens to your pressure under load. If the pressure is good you are lean on jetting. Tell us about your carb.

9.23 / 132 MPH But you didn't ask what in.... :lol:

Aluminum heads should let you get by with 91. A short duration cam or low overlap profile could make it a little dicey.

318willrun is doing a great thread on low buck 318 performance. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=338351 The short answer is there is a lot of meat on the table with the 318. Proper timing and advance curve, carb and intake, dual exhaust with an X or H pipe and the right gear...

Wishing you success!

What does the fuel pressure read on the carb line when this happens?

Yes it would show rich IF it wasn't sucking air in the exhaust.....

If you haven't tried it already hot wire the coil to a straight 12 volts FROM THE BATTERY and see if it changes anything...... I just finished fixing a friends car that had similar symptoms and the main issue was low voltage to the ignition and a failed coil. Part of the issue was the typical...

Density Altitude should be a field in the form as well....

Mono leaf springs on sale $44.99! 54" eye to eye. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Chrysler-Type-Mono-Leaf-Spring-65-Lb-Rate-7-Inch-Arch,7365.html

Speedway Motors has some Mopar style mono leaf springs on close out for $49! Might check them out....

Tire size is going to be a big part of the equation....

With the 3.55 gears I would err on the side of torque. The 383 is a great engine but is easy to over cam.

The ported nipple on the carb you speak of is the passenger front about even with the adjuster screws.