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Nice!

If there is enough meat on the contacts I have resurfaced them with a whiz cutter or grinder with good success.

Yeah it is a trial and error deal but once you find a setting that works for you it's great. A little more wire may be the ticket and maybe move a little slower...

Seen it done, common on the new cars too.... probably something like a 75 amp depending on your alternator and wiring mods.....

Not much help on the under dash end but my 68 sure liked the Denso compressor off of the mid 90s Intrepid chassis. Draws much less power, single V belt drive, build your own bracket and works with my stock expansion valve system. Only other mod other than adapting hoses is using a relay to power...

I finally went down and used the cheap HF flux core machine my dad had. He couldn't get his to work but he had never use a wire machine before. The main problem was the pinch roller on the wire feed was not tight enough and it would not feed at a consistent speed. Once I tightened that up all I...

I'm going to have to go use Dad's flux core machine just so I can give decent advice. Been running MIG too long to be a lot of help. Polarity is usually changed for aluminum and sometimes stainless.

It could be something as simple as reversing polarity....

Yeah but when you get shipwrecked with Ginger and Mary Ann you will be the professor!

Can't have too many skills!

If your unit is upgradable to MIG I would definitely consider doing so. Get your basics first and you will be amazed at the difference between flux core and MIG.

Definitely needs to be bare metal where you are trying to weld.

Are you using an extension cord? It may be too small if you are and causing voltage drop. I use a 10/3 cord for my wire welder. That wire almost looked like it was aluminum....

Does it feel like the wire is pushing you away? If so you need more heat and or slower wire speed. Hold it in one spot till you get a puddle of sorts and then move.

Remember that wire speed is also a way to compensate for heat range. If it is gobbing up on you slow down the wire a bit....

Google "Air Fuel Bomb"!

Drill with a section of speedo cable preferably a little frayed on one end. Usually stops up in a bend in the tank unit.

Is this a 4 speed or automatic? If it's an auto then more cubes is an easy path. With a stock small clutch you start having issues when torque goes up.....

Make sure to save the seat mount reinforcements if the new pans don't come with them. They will need to be transferred...

Here's a good design....

Here ya go.... :)

But is it getting power with the key in "start" position? Like I said, I would hot wire it first and see if you get spark to save diagnosis of a few other components. Glazed or fouled plugs are a possibility as well. Points properly gapped and cleaned. It could be a bad coil but have you spark...

I'd look at the points, check for power at the positive coil terminal and make sure the ballast resistor had continuity of about 1.5 ohms or so. May have to hot wire it if you want to hear it run, then back track wiring.

904 beats a 9 inch clutch though......

You should be able to rekey the later door lock cylinders to the same code as the ignition if the key blanks are the same. I've been saving lock cylinders for a few years and it has been very handy to have a selection of pins to recode the locks and match things up.

Just remove the disco chip! ;) I was thinking rectifier issues as mentioned above... Marginal or weak diodes. Update to a square back alternator and newer style regulator will usually stop the original problem but then the original wiring is sub standard for the new output....

Sorry I don't show the upper pins and springs. If the lower pin is short the upper is long etc....

Slant and small block converters should interchange in that range. There was a change in input spline count as well but I forget when that happened. Flex plates have different bolt patterns though on the crank flange.

I think it is just hanging on the roll pin.