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You have my attention, now post pics as you go along.

Why build a 2,000 hp capable rod for a block that can't handle that kind of power? I don't think there is really a market except for the guys that just want parts that are overkill for their application. Not many 2,000 hp stock block mopars. I would like to see them made but I don't think it is...

A stock stroke (3.75") 440 crank will yield 426 in a 383 or 470 cubes with a 4.15" stroker crank

Here is one that will fit under the hood and make big power

IQ52 has a ton of knowledge and can point you in the right direction. Read some of his motor build threads if you have any doubts. Better to listen to one guy that knows rather than trying combine everything the peanut gallery is throwing at you. You have a good platform to start with and just...

Hard to go wrong with the trick flow 240 and a holley street dominator if you want to keep it under the hood. There are better intakes out there but they are much taller.

For hood clearance you want a holley street dominator intake. They are about the lowest carb pad height of any of the aftermarket alunimun intakes and work very well. The only issue you will run into is the secondary throttle plates hit the plenum with a TQ carb so you will need a short open...

I agree with abodybomber. Make sure you are getting sufficient fuel flow. Changing to a good single plane intake will also help the top end. Tune what you got rather than change a bunch of parts.

I would try simply replacing your stock iron intake with a holley street dominator or M1 and see what that does. Should get you to pull a bit harder on the top end. You don't want to spin too much faster than 6,000 rpm anyhow with stock oiling. You still have the small pick up tube or is it...

I just adjust the length of the wires as needed and solder and heat shrink the connections.

I have a single thermoquad tunnel ram 400 going together for one of my Darts. Gonna have a 4 speed and Dana 60 behind it. Still looking at head and cam options.

I have the 1.03" bars in my 70 Dart. Drives real nice and not harsh at all.

Can't wait to pull the small block and o/d four speed out and put in this 400 with the 308 bearing heavy duty trans. The 70 swinger was originally a /6 automatic car.

Why not just get a 400 block and build that? I am running a forged 383 crank in my 400. I am assuming it is not the original motor for your barracuda.

Sure does look nice. I would like to find a good one but they are not cheap around here.

I am thinking about trying to fit my hedmans with a 440 in a 70 Dart. I got them with the drivers side pretty well smashed up from a guy who did his best to make them fit with a low deck and gave up. I am more concerned about the passenger side fitting with no modifications as I know I will be...

Where is grayslake? I have a housing, axles, backing plates and drums but shipping would be costly.

Notch k-frame for oil pump clearance and the above mentioned pans for steering linkage clearance.

There is no factory big block engine harness for a 1970 Dart. I just used the /6 harness in my 70 swinger when I installed th small block that is in it now. I will do any modifications neccessary when I put my 400 in at a later date. I would just fix what you got.

Some of the early A-body 4 speeds use the 904 slip yoke and have 3.08 first gear ratios. Look for a later one with the 727 yoke. I bought a heavy duty 23 spline with the larger 308 bearings and converted it to A-body with a special extension housing sold by passon performance. Besides an 18...

There is a guy near me selling a set of stahl fenderwell headers he had in a duster. They are 2" primary with 4" collector. Comes with 4" flowmaster's and side dumps. You can find them on DE Craigslist. I went and looked at them and they are nice just a little overkill for my car. He is running...

Do the headman's fit better than the hooker 2" supercomps?

I bought them used off a member here. He Said he bought them in the mid nineties. Have not got themon the car yet but they look far superior to the hooker super comp fenderwells I sold because of tire clearance. The seller said he had 15x7 rims on his car.

The only downfall about the full fenderwell header is that you can only run a 24-25"tall tire up front, if you want to turn all the way with no rubbing. I have a set that run one tube under chassis and have way more tire clearance. tubular parts automotive made them not sure if they are...

The Schumacher under chassis tri y's are not a great design. They work better than manifolds and are easier to install and service the car. Drawbacks are that the tubes are not close to equal lenght and not tuned very well. Good for an average street engine but not a high horsepower build

The primaries on my tubular parts automotive fenderwells are 34" x 2" according to the manufacturer's literature. Mine have the street collectors as they were also available without the flange.

Guy I got my headers from said they fit a 15x7 with a 60 series tire.

I have a set of fenderwells made by tubular parts automotive. These route only three of the tubes through the fender and one under the chassis and then out to the collector outboard of the frame channels. With only three tubes in the fenderwell tire clearance is greatly improved. I am not sure...

Easier on a 440 than a 318. I had the nylon teeth on the cam gear give up on my first car about a month after I bought it. I guess I revved the motor a bit more than the old guy I bought the 72 challenger from. It was tough but I got it back together without it leaking. Boy did that new chain...

The street denominator is a great intake for the low deck big block. Shame it is no longer in production. I have one in my stash but opting for a dual plane for street use on my sock stroke 400 rebuilt with 9.5 to 1 hypers and forged 383 crank. Just a 4 speed street cruiser, not a drag car.