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OK , this maybe two problems , does the side cove have interlocking levers or ball and detent ? if its ball and detent check to see if both detent balls and spring are there , if its interlocking levers check for broken levers . What you are explaining with the noise from the rear could be...

I run 30 weight gear oil in mine with 4 ounces of Justice Brothers 23P , the 23P is a metal conditioner and makes a huge difference , the trans shifts much smoother and run quieter and cooler

The bell you have is for 81 to 87 dodge truck with overdrive manual trans .

I had this same issue and it turned out being a difference in the reverse light switch

Yes there bigger in diameter

Its a 70 Cuda conv , i weighed it last month at Englishtown dragway and it tipped the scale at 3378 lbs

LOL trust me 23 spline does not hold up to Torque and hp together , heres pics to prove it , this mess happend behind a 528 hemi that dynoed at 696 hp at the wheels with a dana 60 430 gears and Eaton tru trac posi unit , i hit second at 5000 rpm and it detonated complete with with 3 holes in...

I tried this on an e body some years back with Hayes 3200 lb pressure plate and all it did was stretch the cable , go hydraulic or as a previous poster said the z bar works fine

i have done over a dozen conversions, its less then half the cost is you source the parts yourself, there are good A body 4 spds all over the place for $200.00 to $ 500.00 , by all means use the dual friction center force clutch

I had an issue just like this and it ended up being a bad trans mount , when i pushed the pedal down it was moving the trans side to side

You can put a extra heavy return spring on the fork to compensate for the over center spring

If im seeing the correctly you are currently running a 456 gear with an auto trans ? If this is the case then the 4 speed will be better because 4 gear will be a true 1 to 1 ratio, your auto trans torque convertor never sees true lock up so the the cruising rpm will be higher with an auto trans...

I have done this many many times, a few times at the drag strip , its not hard at all and a floor jack works fine, you can align the clutch with a plastic alignment tool or if your using a stock bellhousing u can leave the pressure plate bolts loose so u have room to line up the splines. Like a...

I would lean towards the pilot bushing binding or possibly a loose spring in the clutch disc catching on a flywheel bolt

And the advantage to using an Ebody trans is ? Looks like alot of extra work, why just get an A body 4 speed

This is positively the coolest new mopar item to come about in quite some time , manual trans mopars just got a huge shot in the arm . That whole keissler set up looked like a frankenstein set up that was just wrong . Good job Jamie

Never cease works great for pilot bushings

You most likely have a 130 tooth flywheel with 10.5 clutch 23 spline

Doesnt look like anything wrong that z bar ,I would check to see if the clutch fork bracket in the bell broke or the fork folded . I doubt theres anything wrong with that z bar