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If I remeber correct both my 70 swinger and 72 cuda does the same thing.I beleive its in the location of the jack but also remember the engine is not centered in the car either.

If you have to replace it,I bought a rebuild kit from O'Reillys or Advance not sure wich one but that is a chrysler pump NOT a saginaw.So either way you need a chrysler pump and if you go the rebuild route rent the pully puller that removes and replaces the pully,you will need that one. BTW the...

Muscle cars should have a raked look to them.That is not over the top but just enuff to give it a more muscle look.

Hopefully its all good,it should be.

I think they will fit as long as everything is straight and true because it's real tight on the power steering.He needs to be there and be very vocal at the pipe shop about how they need to be tucked away as much as possible.If he's running 2" pipes it may clear above the steering.The reason I...

I went to the hooker header website and either they never made a header for the duster our they don't sale any now all I could find was these which may be owned by hooker which looks to be owned by holly.These are flow tech. http://www.holley.com/13500FLT.asp They are made for your car.

Was the torsion bar bent downwards or just bent alittle and didn't affect the tie-rod?

Glad you got all that worked out.I'll miss reading this every day trying to figure it out lol.

I think the wreck started all this.The LCA mount and possible "mashing" the bushing bending the torsion bar and still possible a bent k frame(hopefuuly not).I had a torsion bar break on a 72 satellite just going to school at 25 mph,I'm sure it was close to breaking long before that.So to bend...

Thats great ...but... I don't think it will be enuff especaily after you lower the car to proper ride hight.At best you gain 1/4".However withe the k frame welded and the torsion bar bushing replaced you may be in luck..hopefully.

Actually mine are faceing bolt to the front of the car(laying down).his is facing right

Performance wise these are in my opinion half way between headers and manifolds.The price is still alittle steep for something that might restrict your motor a little.Search for some used ones.Keep in mind these are free shipping so be mindful of the buy it now price if you find some used...

They look awsome and like they will tuck away nicely but at that price I could pay me an hourly rate for the hassle of other headers.But to each his own.

These may be too restictive.I'm not familiar with the 340 stock manifolds. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=161388

Give them a call and since they are still in testing offer to "test" a set.they may be interested with your engine setup.Couldn't hurt.

I had searched the site to see what they fit but nothing really showed up so I just let someone else find out if they would fit.Shame too because those look good and if right would solve alot of small block problems.

I don't think anyone said the torsion bar was connected to the center link and the "busted k frame was just informed to everyone.The tierod ball joint is to the inside of the torsion bar so lowering the torsion bar will cause the torsion bar to move downward where the tierod will stay at the...

The OP already said he has the torsion bar maxed out because when he lets it down the torsion bar sits on the tie ron end and thats about 1" or so of travel so I believe it will matter.

Don't forget to center your torsion bar bolt or none of these measurement will mean anything if your not back to "stock" configuration.

I wish you would have tightened the steering box back up just to see if that was the issue,guess we will wait till you put it all back together:happy1:.

I just checked my 70' and it looks the same as the 68' picture except mine has a machined lip in the caseing not the bolt shaft where the center link connects.Also mine and the 68 insert from the bottom of the center link where he's inserts from the top.

True but by aliaghnment I was reffering to the k frame or steering box mount maybe being replaced or the fact that it was wrecked and it may be twisted or the fact that the steering box was loose.Something in that nature.

This car has intrigued me and if I'm right or wrong it doesn't matter to me I just want to see what is wrong with it.

I see what your seeing the only thing is he has this car topped out on the torsion bar (very stiff) and it still hits.If it was lowered to normal ride height it set on the torsion bar,so to me and this is my opinion something is out of aliaghnment and I'm just scratching my head over it lol.

The only thing about that is if its was a 1/4" shorter it would still hit by the looks of that dent in the exhaust.Ynless thats not the right exhaust for that car.The whole setup looks higher in his car compared to the control arm than the picture autoxcuda posted

I think the grease zerk was knocked off by hitting the exhaust.on page 5 you can see a dent in the tie rod end and a good size dent in the exhaust pipe so its hitting pretty hard.Unless the tierod ends is about to pop out and is so loose its lifting up in a turn I don't feel it's that.This whole...

yeah I'm only old in body and my mind is leading the way.:cheers:

Thats what I was going to say but didn't want to cause any confussion if it wasn't it.

If anybody knows if a company makes a pitman arm that has a longer drop that would cure tour hitting problem but not fix the problem.may be a tough task.Take yours to a parts store and have them check thier stock for one or go to a junk yard and take yours and look around.Honestly I beginning to...

with the wheels straight is the pitman arm going straight back or at an angle?It should be straight back.If its not than the tierods need to be readjusted.Make sure the steering box mount isn't bend upward.Check both sides of the k frame and make sure they are the same from the ground and not...