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That used plymouth scamp transition pan in the tutorial on spotweld removal is now clamped in place and ready to weld into my sons 69 barracuda

I went a little extreme on it however the holes aren't perfectly spaced or in an exact straight line. I figure this thing is going to get hammered on, dropped, stepped on, etc. over its lifetime so I didnt get really super crazy with it. My old original one in the pix at the beginning of this...

Made me a new spot weld splitter knife. .050" thick stainless and some 1/4" aluminum plate handles. Old one was worn to a nub.

He sure has been busy. Looks like lots of pieces for somebody wanting to clip a frumpy 74-76 darts tail feathers and put on a 70-73 *** end. Look at all the front framerails he has stacked up like chordwood.

Just checked. Well so it is this weekend. Had i known i woulda hauled my unneeded mopar stuff up there and would have been a vendor. Yesterday was windy as heck. Its only 45° currently. Woulda been a little cold hanging out and keeping stuff from blowing away though.

Didnt know we had a swap meet. Was it this weekend? They dont advertise well.

Blair cutter kit. $70 vs a couple of 3/8 cobalt drill bits at about $7.00 each. Most people will go for the drill bits lol.

Hi Rory, Yes, i have spotweld cutters. The ones i have are called rotabroach, made by Blair manufacturing. They range from 1/4" up to 3/4" in my kit. They work pretty well. My kit of cutters cost me about $65 a number of years ago. However i have found that drilling eliminates the nub in the...

Cobalt is where its at. Took 2 of em to get all this apart

Yep wire feed Lincoln weld pak 100 is what i use.

I have used spotweld cutters, however they leave a little nub in the center of the piece you are keeping that needs to be ground off, plus my chisels slide thru the weakened spot welds better when its a partially drilled hole without that raised nub from the spotweld cutter.

I did this write up because i have had people tell me it was a ***** in a half to drill spotwelds out and cleanly seperate the pieces. With the RH rail i went into the shop at 3:30pm, and had it apart from the floorpan by 4:30pm.

Yes, i had the pilot bit in my air drill, the bigger bit in my electric. Some welds can be seperated with a 1/4" bit. The floorpan ones are big welds. A 3/8" just about does it with those. On floorpans that are rusted out that i am trashing, i dont use the drill method. I cut the sheet metal out...

moparmat2000 submitted a new Article: Separating spot-welded body and frame parts Read more about this article here...