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1970 Hamtramck assembly line Sequence number

Pedals 67-76 A body Functional yes, Correct would be 67-69 A body

That may have been added after the fact. I got dimensions off a factory 4 speed car for mine. Its actually mounted lower than that. Not correct for a 67-68, but I am putting in a Hurst, and it doesnt have a reverse lockout, so I figured it would be appropriate.

Nope. It just pins it together. Your side to side movement on the shifter handle to go from gate to gate, this is the pivot point for that.

The OD 3/4 rod is actually longer than a non OD 3/4 rod

Flip the 3/4 tab over, pin shifter in neutral. Cut and shorten the 3/4 rod as needed. Rest of the rods are the same

Non console A body shifter. Short tailshaft A body transmission.

Hurst comp plus factory shifter A body cars with A833 OD transmission. This is evident by the 3/4 tab flipped upside down for the O/D. Unless you shorten the 3/4 rod and flip the tab, your pattern on this "non OD" trans will be 1,2,4,3

It's not about making it easier on the leg, it's about increasing the pedal ratio for shortening the pedal throw to full disengagement for shifting. You dont have to press the pedal as far to disengage for shifting.

You may want to pull it out anyway and mod the clutch pedal for a better pedal ratio by adding 3/4" to the throw. Old drag racers trick. You wont need to push the pedal very far for clutch disengagement. Circled area is the spot you lengthen. Mine has already been modded. Dont extend it over...

You mentioned it's a diaphragm multi finger clutch pressure plate and not a 3 finger Borg and Beck style. Check under the dash, specifically for the really really large clutch assist spring. If it's there, remove it. Not needed with a diaphragm style clutch, possibly adjust the linkage under the...

If the original roller bearings are not galled up, are smooth, shiny, and measure all the same spec, then grease em up and reuse them.

I took my 408 rotating assembly and had all of that balanced internally. That whole external balance add a weight to the torque converter, special balancer, drilled flywheel bullshit, is just that. Bullshit ! I would do the same with a 360 rotating assembly since that makes **** a whole hell of...

Added 3/4" to my light duty assembly arm. Made it like a heavy duty arm. Plus used ValiantOne bronse bushings kit

Heres the skinny on the fatty. What the heavy duty ones had was a different diameter clutch pedal cross pin, different bearing bore and used greased needle bearings. The non performance cars used plastic hat bushings. the bushings that Chris made are bronse to replace the plastic bushings on the...

Chris ValiantOne makes really nice bronse bushings for the light duty clutch setups to eliminate the plastic bushings.

Will fit A body from 1967 thru 1976, but more correct for 67-72. I believe 73 up has a clutch safety interlock switch. Nice find!!

The input shaft looks like it got hot. I had an issue like your mentioned with a needle bearing cup input shaft bearing on my pickup. Truck would not go in first or reverse when the engine was idling because the input shaft was bound up on the input shaft bearing in the crank and when the clutch...

That looks great. I could see you being able to make and sell quite a few of these

Is yours an A833 Overdrive trans?

Something like this but in the proper diameter

Measure the bushing OD with a caliper, then see about buying a piloted straight reamer in the decimal size diameter you need. Something like .002" to .004" bigger than the bushing OD so the bushings are a tight slip fit. Drill slowly with lots of oil. Do the bushings fit the linkage rods fine...

Not sure on the size of those. They look pretty large, but then again I have not fooled with mine since I mocked it up in the car and then forgot about it.

Not sure what timeframe this started, but aftermarket sold Hurst shifters came with plastic bushings. They offered the pit pack with new bronse bushings and clips as an upgrade for worn plastic bushings. I have first hand experience with this. In 1989 I converted a 69 dodge charger to 440 and 4...

I had one of these hurst towers years ago that I had gotten out of a ram van. Used it in a 1960 el camino with a muncie M21. I bought the Hurst retainer plate with the 2 threaded holes, and the correct bolt on handle to clear the bench seat. Using an air operated whizzz wheel, I cut the 1 side...

Wow, thats a 2" difference in length. I dont know anything about early A's and that setup, but I do know brewers is on the money with their website. If you have a bunch of longer ones with correct ends, just cut one down and reweld it. Heres how I would do it. Take one, scribe a nice straight...

Never seen one like this. The AMD ones are EPDM coated black primer. I agree w 72bluNblu

I had A body close ratio 4 speed rods in needed to use on an A833 O/D trans . The 3/4 rod had to be lengthened about 1.5"

Damn eherenbergs price went up on them things. I bought one years ago for $10 from him. Times must be getting hard. Lug nut thing sounds like an idea. I got a bunch of those 7/16 nuts after doing BBP conversions lol. Hey I will drill one of em out for ya for $30 LoL

Heres a complete assembly with the piece you need. Eherenberg was selling just the dark grey metal pivot ball part on evilbay for about $10 awhile ago.