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I'd bet its a combination of that and today's rubber just isn't the same either. Tires and radiator hoses sure don't seem to last as long as they used to.

Man, I just wish I had the space to have cars sit. I could definitely understand how having a handful of cars would mean some of them sit for a while. Good thing it's easy enough to wake them up though. Time to invest in some car covers maybe or at least a harbor freight tarp. :poke:

You should be able to tell pretty easily whether it's a 340 or 416 by pulling one spark plug and getting a little creative.

I'd toss a 4777 or 4779 Holley (or equivalent) on it , tune it up really well, and call it good.

AI bot? Look at their previous posts.

The last two Brawler carbs I've bought have been "factory refurbished" and were essentially brand new, but at about 65% of the cost of new. The one I've used has performed flawlessly and is very easy to tune. The other one is a 950 that'll go on the 470 I'll build for my project car. @Kern Dog...

Those 1850's are super simple carburetors. You'll be able to get that thing working perfectly with one hand behind your back and both eyes closed. Let me know if you need any hard parts or screws or anything. I've got a good amount of spare Holley parts and pieces laying around. Oh yeah - one...

Shoot, I'd be willing to bet these are cast in the same Chinese factory for a whopping $125: Another offshore intake I'd still pay twice that for a used real deal Air gap though.

Post a photo of a good gasket overlaid on it with the bolt holes lined up.

Gasket match it and you'll never know.

I bet that'll work out just fine.

That's a great idea. Then you can use any cable housing and shorten it as necessary. Just cut the firewall side to length and slip on the flange adapter. I'm gonna have to remember that.

That's great info. Do you know if anyone makes a cut-to-fit outer throttle cable jacket that'll attach to the throttle pedal brackets on these old Mopars?

Which one is it? 150, or 160-170? Did it change overnight? And how is the dynamic compression higher than the static?

You don't need to change carburetors to change AFR. You just have to TUNE the one you' got. Verify cam timing with an actual degree wheel and find a new dyno operator.

Just speculating here, but if he's asking what intake centerline means, he probably didn't actually degree the camshaft. That's one of the first things I'd verify.

Was cam timing verified?? I.e., was the cam degreed, or simply installed "dot to dot"? Maybe it's just way retarded like someone mentioned. You won't know unless you check it. Something's obviously way off. I agree with Toolman - you've gotta get back to basics and look at everything objectively.

intake centerline. Where did it end up, and what did the cam card say it should be? Maybe advancing it some would help.

So, cam timing was verified? Where is the ICL?

150 psi seems a little low to me for that combination.

How much ethanol (percentage-wise) will you be running?? There's a big different between e10/e15 and e85.

Readability is a biggie for me. I can imagine what a pain it'd be trying to read a small analog wideband gauge while driving. I've used Innovate and AEM units and have been happy with both.

I'm with you. I can't stand digital gauges either. When I looked into the analog versions, everything I had read was that they aren't as resposive as digital, so they may not be as useful. I guess there's a reason that the majority of AFR gauges are digital.

Did any cars come from the factory with a 14x3 air filter? Say you walked into a chain auto parts store and didn't have a part number. What application could you give them to pull up a standard 14" x 3" air filter?

If you can get a confirmation that it's counterfeit from Carter, you can do a charge back on your credit card. I went through that process for a counterfeit part purchased on Amazon before. I was less than thrilled the way Amazon handled the situation.

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I appreciate it.

Thanks John. I tried calling them, but you know how that goes. I can't think of any reason an alcohol-compatible o-ring wouldn't work for gasoline too. My pump gas has ~15% ethanol anyway, so it's probably the one I want anyway.

I was considering picking up a seal kit for my Mallory 140 electric fuel pump before these pumps and kits become obsolete and noticed they have two version of these kits - one for "gas" and one for "alcohol/methanol." The alky version is $42, while the gas version is $130. Mallory 29819 Mallory...

When the sensor goes bad, does it stop reading all together, or is the gauge just way off?

I've had good luck with Innovate and AEM units. Whichever one you go with, I'd buy it from an authorized dealer like Summit so you're assured to get a genuine unit. There are a ton of cheaper counterfeits all over sites like Ebay...