Search results for query: *

I would be willing to bet this is a Radiator problem, and not an engine problem...

1/2 = 13mm

I'm pretty sure Dan is an AI Bot...

Rislone

Do I smell "Stone Soup"???

the '65 timing marks are bolt on, you will still have your original pointer plus one on the drivers side you don't need.

Yea, 3 seasons now..

We found with our 5.9 with Roller lifters (with 200K miles on them) that performance valvesprings were strong enough to collapse them when it sat a few days. (the stockers are pretty weak) If you spin it over for 30 to 45 seconds before starting it they should be pretty well pumped up.

are 2.02 J's any different than X's? I always thought the only difference was all X heads were 2.02's and only some J's were?

I have the 20200715 in a 5.9 magnum in a '66 Cuda. Pretty tame, good vacuum. 3400# car runs high 12's with a 3.73 gear.

or this,

both of mine were cast iron

not sure the part # but it was the one off the stock '66 273 that came out of the car.

yup, 2 different ones, I had this problem on a '66 Cuda Magnum swap. Adapter off the original 273 was true 90deg. The one off a 71 340 I had "in stock" was not. Had to change them mid swap.

nope, pen and paper. it only lasted until the high center rib wore down even with the rest of the tread. and with Wifey driving it it never repeated it either. but it was 22 MPG both ways that trip thru 4 tanks of gas.

Don't forget there's more to gas mileage than just the engine. Example: Wife's 00 Durango, 5.9 ,46RE , 9.25/3.92 gears. Wife is a ledfoot, throttle WOT unless she is braking. She was a consistent 9 to 10 MPG I could coax 15 to 18 mpg if i tried. We put new tires on (Goodyear Duratrac"s an...

If the trans shop will verify the TQ is balanced for a Magnum, then you can use a neutral flex plate.

Not the rods, just the mains. It probably only let's the crank drop a few thousandths but it helps. 4.0 Jeep engines have the same style seal, and I did HUNDREDS...

Done it many times, remove rear main and loosen the rest so the crank can drop down a little. Tap the old seal in with a small punch until you can grab it on the other side and pull it out. You can usually push the new one in by hand all or almost all the way. Help it in with the punch if not...

You want the valves out to look for the cracks. All I have seen were directly between the seats, at 3:00 on one and 9:00 on the other.

We have had them on our '66 a little over 2 years, it seems to wear better than I would have thought, but it does NOTHING to reduce the under hood temps.

yes, I've seen it done.

I had a'56 Dodge Sierra wagon with the Power Pac. I was able to outrun my buddys 5.0 Mustang in the early 90's with it, can still picture his face!!

That's the 2nd time today for the 270S.. I had it recommended to me years ago for a stock bottom end 318 with 2.02 J's project that got back burnered. I already have the 273 valve gear, still a legit choice? (73 Duster/904/3.21 gear.26" tire)

I run a 800CFM Eddy on a pretty tame 360. runs perfect.

And watch the timing, one wiff of detonation and those Hypereutectic pistons will be in shards in the pan...

add Lunati 20200715 cam to what you already have..

But I'm seeing "pull the coil wire" and "it's the timing". Not if the ignition is off it isn't....

You guys realize the ignition system is dead if the key is off, right? Unless you are running a magneto...

Grind here...no biggie...