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I knew I had this photo somewhere.... bottom item (shiny) is a new sender from Jeg's or Summit (I forget) — exactly the same as the PlumKrazy part above (and much cheaper). Top is the factory A-body sender — completely different.

Huh, I just went to the Plum Krazy site, and the unit they are selling with that part number looks exactly like the one everyone else is selling, with the little short arm and the pivot point halfway down the tube. Image here: The factory A-body unit had the pivot point up near the exit pipe...

That's cool. I have been cutting my own gaskets for atop the AFB. Even the "official" ones in the carb kits don't have the two notches needed. Do you think you could make one if I provided a pattern?

The problem is that ALL the reproduction senders have a different shape than the factory one (there was only one OEM tank and one sender for 67-69 Barracudas). The pivot point is much lower and the arm is much shorter, and the entire tube is a different profile. On top of that, the rheostat...

I would dispute the claim that the tank grounds effectively through the frame. There is insulating packing between the tank and the trunk floor. The only contact would be through the strap which is only potentially grounded at each end. Many cars are undercoated in this location, and otherwise...

There is no reason not to use the original lock ring (nobody will ever see it), but you will need a new gasket.

But... in movies, when you shoot something with a laser, it always blows up! 8)

What Dana said. Yeah, it's programmable, but can you do the math to program it? Can you calculate how much volume is under the curve at each vertical increment? Because the A-body tank is a crazy shape, which is why the other replacement fuel senders don't work worth a crap. I'm a little...

Mine is super responsive to every little movement of the gas pedal. Sounds like yours is stuck.

The wrench is not necessary. A brass drift and a few taps with a hammer will get it loose. or a hardwood rod if you don’t have a brass drift. Steel not advised.

Huh, I would think the exhaust manifold would be a lot hotter than the intake manifold. Mine is in the original location in front of the carb, like the first photo. Never had any problems with that.

The Carter M6866 is an exact replacement for the OEM pump in every detail that matters. Some other alleged replacements have a different profile on the arm that saves a little material but may put more stress on the eccentric.

I'm not familiar with the numbers you are quoting. But I recently discovered that Carter has superseded the number on the small block fuel pump. The new part number is Carter M6866, if you are looking for the correct small block pump. You didn't state which engine you had.

Yeah, I tried that unit. 1. The inlet tube is a different shape and pulls from a different place in the tank. Don't know if that has any effect or not. Probably not. 2. The float arm pivot is located in a completely different position and the float arm is much shorter. This obviously would...

FYI the aftermarket sender units sold for A-bodies are not calibrated correctly to the tank shape... they have a linear scale that ignores the fact that the upper half of the tank includes a huge cut-out for the spare tire well. So you would probably be happier if you could repair the original...

Sorry, I don't know why it duplicated the photo.

Original was a Carter 3962S per the FSM. I have one that I pulled maybe 30 years ago, shown top in photo. The bottom was a generic replacement. Current Carter replacement # is M6866. It has the bent arm like the old Carter.

Surprised someone put one in a Dart — a locking cap would have been simpler. My Barracuda had one of those springs because of the flip-top cap. It was maddening — you could only fill it by manually feathering the pump at the lowest possible flow rate. I bought a new neck just to get rid of it —...

Just to clarify, the tank seal is a donut that has to be fitted into the tank opening before you insert the filler tube. The filler tube needs to be more or less in place in the car, and you have to wiggle the tank up on it while you wiggle the filler into it — if either one is bolted in place...

If you don't drop the tank, you need to remove the filler neck completely. Or you can drop the tank and leave the filler neck hanging, or remove both (probably easiest in the long run, and lets you inspect everything for condition problems). Consider: maybe it's not the seal, it could be rust...

I have used Right Stuff brake lines. They were fine. But I don't think anyone makes a good replacement sender unit for A-bodies. Look at it beside your old one. You will see that the float arm is shorter and a different shape, and the pivot point of the arm is in a different location. Also...

Oh, and the vent pipe can clog. BTDT. It is strapped on sort of parallel to the filler neck on a fastback. Try blowing air through it.

Seriously, if you have a fastback Barracuda, you do NOT want the filler in the trunk. There is NO separation between the trunk and the passenger compartment. No, that dropdown panel doesn't seal airtight, and it wouldn't matter if it did, because there is a connecting vent behind the side...

My 67 non-CAP doesn't have that hole, sorry. Is it not the same thread as the vacuum nipple?

JB Weld would probably do the trick if you are nervous about soldering something that has been soaking in gasoline for fifty years...

My father accidentally drilled into the tank on my blue 'vert. He used JB Weld. Still holding up 20 years later. But you made a much bigger hole, so YMMV...

AFAIK none of them work right. They are "generic" in the sense that the windings on the board are a linear progression -- the factory ones had a varying winding pattern to compensate for the internal shape of the tank (which has the spare tire cutout in the upper half). They also use a different...

I think that is some kind of soft metal plug. If the gas seems to be coming out of there, well, that's your problem. I'm not sure how you would go about removing it non-violently. I would say use a torch but that seems inadvisable unless the carb was completely stripped down and ideally immersed...

I don't know that those open-style stamped wing nuts were ever chrome. The cast ones with solid ears might have been. Frankly, I didn't really get involved with these cars until they were 10-20 years old so who knows where the wing nuts came from at that point.

FWIW, I would guess that the reason for the change is emissions related. I don't know how that affected it physically.