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The timing problem could be as simple as the outer ring on the damper has slipped and the timing mark is not at TDC, so agree that needs to be checked. It is also possible that the two wires going to the distributor are paired incorrectly. Try swapping those two and see if the motor runs better...

And engine lube oils are better today. And better valve spring technology like beehive and conical are available today. So the tools are out there take advantage of faster ramping solid lifter cams.

Ok, but just keep in mind that the Mopar grinds being used were designed around the .904 lifter used by Mopar. I don’t recall hearing of valve train failures on the performance Mopar engines, the same Mopar engines that would have had the faster ramp due to the .904 lifter that Mopar designed...

the link below is to the FAQ page at Hughes Engines. there Hughes states that the lobes they use are designed to take advantage of the large mopar .904 lifter. included is an explanation of how a faster ramp will improve engine performance...

The cutters and tooling would likely be common and used on all cams. It’s the program (math data) that moves the cutters to a specific tool path that is job dependent.

I bet that the cam lobe profile machining done today is via a CNC process. The lobe masters would not be physical parts. They exist as math data.

I called Oregon Cam Grinding today and spoke with Ken. He confirmed that the Oregon catalog does include some .904 lifter diameter specific lobe, but to get one you must be specific and request a Mopar .904 diameter compatible grind. The Oregon catalogue does not break out the Mopar profiles...

I put a Classic Auto Air system on the 68 Barracuda. Works well. Modem compressor, all new under dash heater box….

Agree, if someone is putting in the effort to have a custom ground cam, it just makes sense to ask the additional question to the cam grinder, ‘what is the minimum diameter lifter for that specific grind?’ Picking a lobe that’s designed for a Mopar or even a Ford lifter will result in a cam...

an article that explains lifter diameter and valve train acceleration rates. Ask Anything: Larger Lifters

I am sure the Oregon is capable of grinding Mopar lobes, the machinery will duplicate the profile of the cam lobe master that is loaded in, the problem is that Oregon does not have any Mopar cam lobe masters to have the machinery duplicate. For the last cam I had ground at Oregon, and this was...

And the cam lobe masters that Oregon has are designed for the small diameter GM lifter. You are giving up the one thing that Mopar has going for it. The ability to run a steeper ramp on the cam due to the larger diameter Mopar lifter.

Since Hughes seems to specialize in Mopar parts, their cam grinds maybe based on Mopar profiles that take advantage of the large .903 diameter lifter that Mopars use. I know a lot of slant six folks like to use Oregon Cam Grinders, and I have also, but most of their cam profiles are based on...

I run a Mega Squirt 3 Pro ecu in my mpfi slant six. It has been in use since 2016 and has been reliable. The intake is a Clifford 4 bbl unit that I drilled the NOS bosses to accept the fuel injectors. The injectors that I use are Ford 460 units. There are on line FI sizing calculators that can...

Post this over at .org it is likely that a couple of folks over there would be interested in a set of cast crank long rods. That would help get the order numbers up.

That makes the assumption that K1/Molinar will do a run of cast crank long rods, as that is what this post was about initially

As Colombo would say, ‘Just one more thing’ ARP has different part numbers for the slant six cast and steel crank rod big end bolts. How they are different and how that would play into narrowing a set of steel crank rods, if at all, I don’t know.

The pin end is the same width on both the cast and steel crank rods. Narrowing the big end of the connecting rods is not difficult, but it is machine shop work. Maintaining the specified rod side play on the big end is important. One would also need to re cut in the lock slots. To keep the rod...

Just saying the problem did not start with the replacement of the points and condenser, it is firing through the exhaust with the new and old set.

Yep, that’s it, That darn pesky # 7 plug has baffled more than one slant six owner.

But remember AJ, the motor was popping before the points and condenser were swapped out. He said every time the engine was started,,,,

If the damper slipped once and you had to re mark it, it has probably slipped again. Verify TDC using your piston stop again. And look into either having your damper re built or replaced. A company named Damper Dudes does a nice job on rebuilding dampers. You should also do a compression...

I believe the fender tag is the only paint code keeper.

Look on line for original paint colors for a 69 Barracuda. That stuff is posted. Once you have it narrowed down visit an automotive paint store that has been around for a while and they may have a catalog of Chrysler paint samples and formulas of colors. To get a good look at the original car...

Iron slant blocks are routeenly over bored .100 that is typically not to pick up a few cubic inches, but to use some specific pistons. The best way to know how big you can go is to pay your selected machine shop to sonic test the cylinder walls of the block.

When K1 / Molinar released their ‘long rod’ slant six rods they had a forged and a cast crank rod. The cast crank rod was not available for long, but I jumped on it and I got a set and that is what I am running in the 87 cast crank slant that is in the 68 Barracuda. Unfortunately and I don’t...

Going with 198 rods or aftermarket long rods and 2.2/2.5l or other appropriate aftermarket pistons gets you to a zero deck piston height. That and a light clean up cut on the block and head got my slant to a 10.5 static compression ratio.

Charlie, the pistons in the cast crank slant with the Molnar 'long' rods are KB Hypereutectic 1 mm OS 2.2L pistons and they have a floating pin and lock rings KB KB239.STD Keith Black KB Performance Pistons | Summit Racing

Charlie, the built slant six in my 68 Barracuda has flat top 1 mm OS KB 2.2 L pistons and Molinar rods with floating pins all on a cast crank. I bought the rods when they were first released, it is my understanding that the Molinar cast crank rods have been discontinued, but these work with the...

198 rods can be sold for a couple of hundred dollars to someone wanting to build a ‘long rod’ slant six. The 198 rods used in conjunction with Mopar 2.2 or 2.5 l pistons gives a near zero deck height. Other than the rods and crankshaft, everything else in and on the motor is common with the 225...