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Might need notch out aluminum for power steering a bit.

Used original type elephant ears in late 80's. But from 1/2" aluminum with milled down area 3/8" where attached to water pump. There is a little flex under heavy load But still together and running today...lol

IMO HP manifolds actually better than those "tri pipe headers". Not worth the cost. For small diameter.

Interesting. My 383 was out of 67 New Yorker....

Have to agree. Although didnt verify your Observations. I built this B block back in 1992. 383 .60 over nothing fancy 11:1 open chamber ported heads.Gear drive. This thing leaked from day one. Interesting. Mainly after 30 minute drive or so. Nitrous playtime sure didnt help. But engine strong...

Nice car.

Depends on cam duration and Engine compression and total advance. If you have big duration cam= no vacuum. Might be better off with 2 480 cfm holley Manual secondarys. I have similar set up on 67 cuda 383 11:1 Open chamber steel heads ported. 550 lift 300 duration. 1.6 rockers solid cam Have...

I was under assumption 906 heads flowed better at higher RPM? It least it feels/sounds like it......lol

Little tinfoil wrapped around cleaned upper (head) half of bolt threads+ threadlock. Just lodge between threads with dental pick. Worked more than once for me....... D.

Heres a few older pics. All I have for now, from phone. Don't mind the dogfood under carbs the field mice steal from dog bowl...LOL in winter months. Dave

moderators can you move this to "show me your big block a body" post? Thanks.Dave

Mods.... thought I posted this in Show your big block A body????? Can you fix? Thanks, Dave

383 60 over, roller /rocker setup.open chamber heads, fenderwell headers. .520 solid lift .310 duration isky cam 11:1 TC, 150 shot Nitrous, 2- 550cfm holley,straight advance. 727 TF RVB, 3500stall, .413 8 3/4 SG clutchtype 742 case. Front disc, rear 4 point ladder bars. (68 front end,all Could...

Theres a little noise initially then wears in. Solid lifters alone drown it out regardless.

If you are running a large spec solid lift cam, it takes internal timing questions out of the equation.

Pete Jackson (quiet) Makes timing dead on especially when you're running straight advance and run Above 4500rpm occasionally on street. Some modifications on my b block with the grinder no big deal. Dave

Stock motor mounts or plate/ears set up? I had to lower front plate 1/2" to give 3/4" from MC. Or offset MC plate as mentioned

FWIW, Making the change to 1.6 rockers mellowed out the lopey idle of cam on my BB. But does make power quicker now. IMO

I got my steering u-joint from Grainger, I believe for less than $50. Just had to cut one side down a smidge for length restraint.

If you're into performance exhaust manifolds aren't the answer. But if it's a car that's worth saving and not destroying Fender Wells that's a different story.

Frame supports mandatory. I also supported firewall to fender wells as well. Used 1" square tubing across fender wells to core support. Then to firewall. Only cause I cracked windshield after some launches. Mainly because of 2 1/8 fender well headers. I presume. D.A.

Agree,you need billet rockers with better clearance to valve tips. And spring retainers.

Indeed. Great work. all around

3 core radiator. Small 16" fan.push. With some shroud. Should be good. With proper water pump.

Big block auto trans. Much easier Than manual. I wouldn't do that ever again. That is headers and power steering If you can deal with manual steering, Different. D.

Let alone the resale on someone interested in that additional power alone not accompanied by stock applications. Without the Xtra $ numbers car that would be lit up anyway.......Ha.

Part of this swap should include Brakes that can actually stop the car, and beefier rearend. At the least........even with good running stock BB.

Thats Definately a Big Block, Awesome.

With big duration cam Need for low rpm power boost

My 2cents. 906 best bet. Ported better. Big cam running above 5000 rpm On street. Can't beat it. But better have compression.