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X2:cheers:

Lol,until the chev pukes it's guts out at the track... At least the mopar engine will get you home after a long track day. Infinitly more reliable

I see what you mean. At least they wont scrape on speed bump's,lol.. As for changing plug's I've always found it easy with a wrench or socket to crack it loose and pop a vacuum hose over the end! Turn's it out (or in) pretty fast.

I know what you mean. Lot's of high dollar stuff in the Mopar market,but the overall satisfaction isnt that great. Seem's to me there is no dollar value in getting fancy header's,so I bought a scratched up set of hooker's off craigslist for $75! They should fit,seeing how the inner fender's are...

Those look nice but how do the weld's look close up? A sure sign of quality craftsmanship would be nice,untouched welds that needed no clean up.

As far as fit and finish TTI and Doug's seems to be the best. Any A body small block header will fit. Summit sells em dirt cheap.

Thanks Zakimodo for that AWESOME sound clip! I really dig that wide open bark. How is the sound level in the interior? Any drone while driving?

Ahh,the drone...Probably the mufflers. I've seen info on mufflers that have a valve inside.They are supposed to help eliminate most of that nasty drone.

I've had my best luck removing seized fasteners by heating them until cherry red and then quench em with a cold cloth. This usually breaks em free.

I think the summit stuff is made by heartthrob exhaust. That being said,it is good value for the $$,but iof you plan on doing any shows I'd get stainless.

No seams= less places for rust to start=muffler lasts longer

It's too bad folks dont post up more exhaust sound video's in the vid area. I buy a muffler based on how it sounds,cant be bothered with how good it flows when Im just gonna add exhasut cutouts,lol!

Yup.they are very reasonable,about $55.

Depends on the engine/individula but I like super hemi turbo's by walker. They have that old school sound I like.

It's good that the TTI stuff fits so well for ya but I know there are folks on this board who cannot agree. My self I can afford the summit el cheapo but I'll buck up for the walker super hemi turbo's and get good electric cutouts.

Personally Im going 3"to the muffler and 2 1/2 over the axle if it's possible to order that at Summit. Then I'll just install electric cut outs after the headers. Restriction smiction!

There is a tool bar at the top of the post. One box is labelled thread tools. You will find a subscribe option there. Also,there is an option in your usercp page to automatically subscribe to a thread whenever you make a post to it.

One thing lots of folks dont know about pipe is that it has internal drag or friction. The bigger the pipe the more friction created. Just like a car trying to "push" thru the wind,now the exhaust is the wind and it's moving instead.I have no clue where the break even point would be or if it...

Yaaaaaaah!!!!!:cheers: Not a bad price,under $500 is a minor miracle.Looks like a b block header. I might use those if I was staying anywheres near stock,lol! As it is a box of j bends will fit a lot better.

Hmmm,yup has mufflers and a healthy 383 that puts it in the mid 12's.

A frien had the pypes system on his 69 Superbee.Pretty loud...

Summit,Jegs

Very nice! My son says it sounds angry! I've long been a dynomax fan but borla is second only because ofthe price,which used to be outrageuos..

Any chance of a sound clip or a video?

I have always loved the sound of the dynomax hemiturbo muffler. It's the one all the Chevelle guys put on thier chevies so it will sound like a mopar,lol!!

Looks good and nice drawing btw! What would be the point of the race bullets?

Hey 66 ,heres my thinking on your issues. Get a cheap set of headman or Summit headers.Hack em up and reweld em to make em fit.Not that much money and should be close to fitting without mods anyways. This would be a custom header on a budget! I have hedmans right here along with flowmaster...

Can you snap some pics? What config is needed? Rear dump on pass and center on the driver side?

Here is another possible problem to overcome. With the trans mount cut in 1/2 the engine is also tilted back further than normal. You may find the motor experiences more fouling in the rear cylinders. The stock float setting on whatever carb may not apply either,lol.

How about installing a proper trans mount and shimming the rear to get pinion angle back to spec? Seems easier this way than any other option. Or is this not possible due to the size of the 727?