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I have a new MP fan with the super short fan clutch I was going to use on my big block cuda.

Yes sounds like your resistor has a burnt out circuit. I had to replace mine in a 69 cuda air car. It is in the heater box.

I worked part time for Sears automotive in the mid 70's. They installed similar aftermarket systems.

That looks like the tag you can see on my compressor.

This is the only picture I have of mine with the original A/C system. I honestly don't remember that sticker being on the car.

I get no heat when the controls are in the off position.

Same here

How about a nice spun aluminum one with a tig welded bracket?

Not exactly what you are after but my cheap overflow tank for the race track.

I will be watching, I have to take mine out also. I think there are two long studs holding it to the bottom of the dash, and once you remove them it just pulls out, but as i said I haven't tried it yet.

There is a resistor in the top of the heater box which controls the speed. Mine went and I had the same problem.

Can somebody post pics of the completed installation?

Glad to hear everything is OK.

Sounds like you have narrowed it down to the water pump, either a stripped or broken shaft. I doubt there will be any permanent damage from the way you described it.

I used them on mine to keep them neat. No problems.

Thanks, that tells me what I needed to know, and thanks for posting the picture Jim.

I need to replace the variable wiper switch, and hook up the linkage, so I need to remove the A/C under dash distribution box for access . How many screws to remove it? Then does it just slide out? I'm also considering leaving it off altogether once I get it out, to allow more space under...

Sorry I'm late to the party. My cuda has 3 lines a well, a vacuum supply to the intake (with the white fitting in it), one with a red tracer to the engine side of the control valve and one with a white tracer to the fender side of the control valve. Here are a couple of pictures.

Probably the resister in the heater box. It happened on mine. I had to find a good used one. If they burn out you will either get only one speed or none at all.

Underdrive crank pulleys are smaller and spin your water pump slower. They save horsepower by using less to drive the pump. If your cooling system is marginal, you will probably overheat, especially at low speeds. I was running one and had to go back to a 1:1 pulley to control overheating in...

On the A/C cars everything is controlled by vacuum. I left mine on because I wanted to be able to shut off the heat in the summer. I rerouted the hoses to clean things up a bit.

The web site is called EZCool, and it is called CoolCarb (all one word) I just looked it up.

I just pulled the underdrive pulley off my big block stroker. It acted fine on the highway, but would start to overheat as soon as you got into any stop and go traffic. On the weekend I went to the race trck and the car idled for about 15 minutes waiting in line, and it never moved over 1/2 on...

If you are looking for a heat insulating spacer, the best I have found are by coolcarb. I have two thin ones under my holley, one that keeps heat from reflecting onto the fuel bowls and another the same size as a carb gasket on top that acts as a spacer so the linkage will clear.

I really like your attention to detail, putting the vent where the factory controls were and the controls where the ashtray was. Very clean installation. My car had factory air. Has anyone used the stock underdash unit and controls with a modern system? Does someone make a retrofit kit, or...