Search results for query: *

I ordered a Summit brand front sway bar for my 66 and I am sure it was a repackaged Helwig kit.

If you are referring to mine, that is the stock bar. I only replaced the brackets and bushings. I thought the picture might help with the orientation of the brackets, as yours look similar.

One of my factory sway bar brackets was bent, I assume from impact with a curb. I replaced both of them with similar brackets to what you have there. this is the best picture I have.

You also need to watch your gas tank clearance.

I put KYB's on my Charger, even after reading all the negative reviews. They did exactly what I wanted, and gave me a much firmer more stable feeling on the highway. I can live with a little roughness over tar strips and the like. I am sure there are better more expensive shocks out there...

I found the same thing. Raised the car slightly, which was a good thing. I love the more controlled ride. A little rough over tar strips but I don't care.

What is in the power steering return fitting. There seems to just be a spring. Is there supposed to be a check valve or something?

Thanks, I should have mentioned that the pump is off the car during my engine reassembly. I guess I could just pour fresh fluid into the return line and spin the pump by hand until the pressure hose runs clear?

I am having my original power steering box rebuilt and upgraded for more feel. My federal pump was not leaking and was operating smoothly, so I really don't want to take it apart, but it was suggested that I flush it out to ensure there are no contaminants that could get into the fresh box...

Rusty, you're killing me with your new avatar!

Make a 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate and sandwich it between the front spring hanger and the frame. That centers the axle and moves the yoke out. Then add solid lowering blocks of you need them

That was with multi leaf springs.

I ran into the 12's on super stock springs and ordinary C body shocks. In fact I only went to adjustable shocks when I changed to Cal Tracs.

You are not taxing the suspension at that power level, and it is not spinning, so I think you would be better off putting money into the engine. With 4:10 gears and a 2500 convertor, my first change would be the cam.

Mine are set with "a nickles worth" of clearance. They still clang over sharp bumps, or on hard shifts.

I ordered the PST polygraphite rebuild kit last year. After reading a number of posts recently, I decided to order the greaseable pivot shaft kit. I just received it, and I am very impressed with the quality. The pins actually have Proforged stamped on them. The bushings are a light press...

I always thought those brochures made it look like they had a couple of sand bags (or dead bodies) in the trunk. In real life I always remembered that they sat higher than that.

Crap, I fine tune the ride height on mine all the time with the weight on the wheels.

Nice work Andrew. You are making me feel like a real slacker.

Most hitches back in the day were bolted through the trunk floor with plates forming kind of a sandwich, and had a U shaped support hoop which bolted to the face of the bumper. I made my own hitch years ago where the support hoop was more V shaped and bolted to the side of the bumper brackets...

I had a spot like that and dressed it with a file and have been running them for years.

A 1" air gap on the street should be good. Take it from me, the first time you go over railway tracks quickly, you will wonder what is coming through the floor.

I cut down my snubber and also shaved the top of the rubber bumper flat.

The PST kit I just ordered came with the polygraphite lower control arm bushings and a set of rubber bushings, presumably to use the sleeve in case the original is not salvageable. I guess I will be able to see what fits best and decide which to use.

I have had the RMS ones on the cuda for years, but granted not many miles in that time. Probably the single greatest improvement in freeing up the front end for drag racing. I will be pulling the front end apart for all new bushings this winter, and I will check them, but I would be surprised...

Unless there is any cracking around the strut rod hole I would forget the washer. Your new strut rods sandwich that area, and the heim joint takes a lot of the stress off. Plus the extra thickness of the washer may throw off the fit.

I scanned some previous posts and most guys seem to just redo the crappy factory welds, or weld the perimeter seams. You might want to be careful about adding gussets anywhere those huge new headers are going to be close to.

Looking at your picture and draginmopars I would guess you want 0.

I installed RMS adjustable strut rods in the cuda a few years ago. They are almost identical to the PST ones Andrew just bought. The aluminum biscuits basically sandwich the hole in the K frame so it becomes a solid unit with nothing to wear. The heim joint takes all the movement. These were...

They were stock replacements ordered from a parts store for the year of the car. I had some Energy Suspension ones I bought which were shorter but I couldn't get them to line up.